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bats
May 26, 2006 16:15:46 GMT -6
Post by trappnman on May 26, 2006 16:15:46 GMT -6
sayt- if any of you have bat info, go to the adc- my son in law has bats in his belfry...so to speak.
I told him wait til dark and seal holes.
right or wrong?
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bats
May 26, 2006 16:28:55 GMT -6
Post by psb1011 on May 26, 2006 16:28:55 GMT -6
Wrong,not all the bats leave everynight.
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bats
May 26, 2006 16:39:04 GMT -6
Post by Bob Jameson on May 26, 2006 16:39:04 GMT -6
Wrong, all bats don't evacuate just at dark . Some will just hang around for a while or fly through out the structure for a while. Some are in and out all evening. This is dependent upon the temperature readings in your area at nite also. Some colonies in our area being as cold as it has been at nite are still huddled together and not flying on a regular basis yet. Some means of exclusion should be used to prevent re inhabitation. A watch should be performed to determine all the evacuation points first. Then seal the rest of the home to prevent any returns using silicone or other type cosmetic and permanent materials. This should be done during the daytime so as to see what you are doing. Have him visit our website www.wcsbatcontrol.com for some info. Simple netting,plastic sheeting piece,or a hand made cone from an old caulk tube can be configured by the consumer to allow a bat venting type of situation. But it must be done correctly as not to obstruct the bats exit point or to seal the bats in. They must be able to leave unobstructed or you may cause them to back into the house. This obviously is not a good thing. There is some good basic info on the internet but an understanding of the application of any device is critical for success. They can return through another portion of the house if not sealed properly. Every inch of the house must be checked thoroughly for possible re entry points.Or you will be venting them out from another area. They are very persistent in finding a new way back in and will be for some years you will find out. Birthing season is coming quickly in our area, probably within a week or so away here. You are more than likely a little farther off due to your climatic differences.
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bats
May 26, 2006 18:26:00 GMT -6
Post by dj88ryr on May 26, 2006 18:26:00 GMT -6
Bats are good, they eat mosquitos... ;D ;D
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bats
May 26, 2006 18:29:34 GMT -6
Post by bobwendt on May 26, 2006 18:29:34 GMT -6
one way flutter valve over the openings, like a colony trap door
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bats
May 26, 2006 20:30:45 GMT -6
Post by psb1011 on May 26, 2006 20:30:45 GMT -6
Bob W,theres a lot more to it than that,Bob J said it right in much more detail.
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bats
May 26, 2006 20:39:57 GMT -6
Post by Bob Jameson on May 26, 2006 20:39:57 GMT -6
Phil you know the drill. You could have saved me alot of typing if you had just told it like it is. These guys probably dont know you are the batman too, not just the redfox man.
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bats
May 26, 2006 23:57:26 GMT -6
Post by JWarren on May 26, 2006 23:57:26 GMT -6
I know that fireworks will get them stirring around, not sure if its 100% to get them all to fly out though
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bats
May 28, 2006 10:12:51 GMT -6
Post by Jason Cox on May 28, 2006 10:12:51 GMT -6
Thanks Bob I do have an idea where they are getting in and out on that bat house . Could you maybe give me some measurements on that .And would I be able to purchase the baffles through you if so let myself or Steve know. Thanks Jason
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bats
May 29, 2006 6:06:54 GMT -6
Post by Bob Jameson on May 29, 2006 6:06:54 GMT -6
Jason, tell me where they are coming from and I will try to tell you what you must do. Also how large is the opening(s)? This is important to know to determine what device or material is best to use. Understand this will require considerable work at times on a ladder to assure the job stays done.
You must seal the whole house, roof line, dormers, gutter line,window frames,chimney flashing etc to name a few. These areas must all be inspected for entry/exit points or possible re entry points. If the house is in poor condition you will have your handsful or it may be impossible to bring back to the proper integrity to resolve this issue until major repairs are completed. Lots of variables with bat work at times. You must have a good eye and know what to look for where. Any crack, hole or crevice need to be sealed prior to any attempt to evacuate the bats.
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bats
May 29, 2006 9:16:55 GMT -6
Post by Jason Cox on May 29, 2006 9:16:55 GMT -6
Bob I know my roof is in need of repair we will be getting a new one soon . We are going to re sheet the roof and take down two old chimneys.They are coming in and out of the valleys of the roof . The rest of the house has new siding I think they are all coming in the roof. Thanks, Jason
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bats
May 31, 2006 0:57:43 GMT -6
Post by blakcoyote on May 31, 2006 0:57:43 GMT -6
Bob J,what are the dangers of sealing off entry points,or working around bats during the exclusions,ie; breathing airborne particals,and do they bite when trying to do exclusions,like if you happen lift a board and there under it,do they just fly off.I have them getting in my attic through different point in the eaves,it's and old house that I'm remodeling.Can you smoke them out?
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bats
Jun 1, 2006 20:11:46 GMT -6
Post by Bob Jameson on Jun 1, 2006 20:11:46 GMT -6
The drawbacks of sealing entries is that they are also exit points for bats. It is not what you want to do. It will force the bats back into the house in an attempt to get out.
If you are working in a closed environment with appreciable amounts of bat guano you should wear a good respirator to protect yourself. Particulate can be a bad problem for some , others it seems not to affect but i wouldn t take the chance personally.
I work in bat colony sites often but prefer to cleanout the waste after the main colony has been evacuated. A few may not leave and those that dont can be captured and removed. They are not aggressive by nature and will most usually avoid you while in the fly areas. They certainly can bite but have not done so in my experience unless handled or pressured by sitting on one or finding one in ones pocket.
I have heard the term smoke them out but dont believe it would be a wise practice even it it did work. An exclusion is the best and most effective method.
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bats
Jun 2, 2006 0:40:56 GMT -6
Post by blakcoyote on Jun 2, 2006 0:40:56 GMT -6
Thanks Bob.I have a respirator I use when cutting and grinding steel,it has 2 canisters on it,will that work okay,or is there a certain cannister I should use on it.One other question,would those electronic plug in high frequency things that are supposed to drive out mice and rodents,work on bats,to flush them out of an attic,or doesnt high frequency sound work on them?
Thanks,Duane
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bats
Jun 2, 2006 6:09:39 GMT -6
Post by Bob Jameson on Jun 2, 2006 6:09:39 GMT -6
That type of respirator will work well. Canister types filter particulate very well. Just need to have some replacment filters to change as they will clog if it is real bad and you will begin to taste the guano.
We have tested most of the products available for evicting bats in terms of the ultrasonics etc and have found no effect on them in our experience.
BJ
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bats
Jun 2, 2006 7:04:35 GMT -6
Post by trapperjoemo on Jun 2, 2006 7:04:35 GMT -6
Hey Bob, When you are doing exclusion on a chimney, what size wire mesh do you use? Is it different for gas flues and wood stoves? In my area I understand we have a size code for wood burning stoves, fireplace flues. If the mesh is too small, soot build-up can block the mesh, very dangerous. If it`s too big the bats go thru. Where is the middle ground??
Joe
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bats
Jun 2, 2006 12:11:16 GMT -6
Post by Bob Jameson on Jun 2, 2006 12:11:16 GMT -6
Are you referring to exclusion as in funneling the bats out of a chimney. We dont get many of these jobs just a few a year. I cut a piece of luan or cardboard to reduce the open area to elimanate the draft except for the opening I want to use as the evacuation point. Usually I will leave a 3" to 4" cut out area on a corner near a climb point on the brick. From here I use what is called pet screen that is used to funnel the bats out in a tube fashion.
I run this over the top of the crown and down the side of the chimney for about 2 feet or so. I form a roll tube and hold it together with duck tape. Then I attach the tube with hercules putty and duck tape to hold it into position.I make the tube about 2 inches in diameter or so. or about the size diameter of a caulk tube.
When making a chimney cap when the job is done I use 1/2 by 1/2" GAW wire and build my cap 8" high and ring it togetherand cement it on. It takes some practice and knowhow to build a nice basket cap but it is bat,bird,and coon proof .
Each state has a code as to what the recommended wire grid is to be and the height. Most states are 3/4" or so in a diamond or square configuration.We use 1/2' most of the time on vented flues. If it is a burn coal or wood stove flue I buy a commercial S.S. cap and mount it.
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bats
Jun 2, 2006 13:04:08 GMT -6
Post by blakcoyote on Jun 2, 2006 13:04:08 GMT -6
Thanks alot Bob.
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bats
Jun 10, 2006 19:55:54 GMT -6
Post by trapperjoemo on Jun 10, 2006 19:55:54 GMT -6
Yes, Thanks Bob! But, can`t a bat get thru 3/4" diamond wire? Or maybe even 1/2"X1/2"? I guess I was thinking of 1/2" X 1" ?
Thanks Bob, you have inspired me in my business for several years now.
Joe
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bats
Jun 10, 2006 20:58:42 GMT -6
Post by Bob Jameson on Jun 10, 2006 20:58:42 GMT -6
Joe, I construct our caps from 1/2x1/2" GAW wire. Bats cannot get through this size grid. The 3/4" commercial diamond grid may allow a young small brown to squeeze through but the 3/4" grid measurement is the length of the grid not the height. Most commercial caps come with that grid size predominately from the ones I have used over the years.
If folks are burning wood or coal you should use a commercial cap. If just venting a furnace or gas logs etc the GAW steel mesh I use is just fine.
Stainless is best but anodized painted steel caps are typically those found at lowes or home depot and they work fine also.I have used those when I am in a pinch to buy one in a hurry. The regular steel caps will rust much more quickly then the S.S. type naturally when under a heavy burn exposure over the years.
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