|
Post by trappnman on Dec 25, 2012 8:00:11 GMT -6
you keep them off it?
details
turning the trap so dog is at 6 helps- but its not close to 100% and the dogs AND posts are going to get chewed, especially in that extended check you prefer
|
|
|
Post by mostinterestingmanintheworld on Dec 25, 2012 8:07:49 GMT -6
I like the dogless on coil springs. They don't have pan slop, which is important on exposed sets.
I use the PIT's on my longsprings. I use a #5 Bridger pan on my 3n's.
|
|
|
Post by trappnman on Dec 25, 2012 8:11:20 GMT -6
main reason I like dogless, is one less thing to mess with on the line- I do use a few Bridgers, and its not rare, to have to get out the pliers after a catch
|
|
|
Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 25, 2012 8:53:01 GMT -6
No pan slop with PIT on coil springs. Than you just need to buy beefier dogs or weld stock on them no chewing then. My only hang up is spring pins on a few getting bent up. That can happen with any of them though. A friend told me of some better spring pins I'm going to look into.
You keep them off the dog with a small foot guide not hard or slow. Stick, bean stubble,cactus what ever one has. With the PIT pans and dogs beefed up very Little maintenance really.
|
|
|
Post by GaTrapper on Dec 25, 2012 23:17:05 GMT -6
TC39, are your PIT pans sitting below or level with the jaws? I had some on my #2s and the pan sat way above my jaws.
|
|
|
Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 26, 2012 7:30:32 GMT -6
Below all it takes is a vice grips to get them a shade below the jaws. I close the dog eye first before adjusting the pan height
|
|
|
Post by trappnman on Dec 26, 2012 7:41:26 GMT -6
I wasn't talking about stepping on the dog-
why weld or beef up dogs- since you are always on the lookout for advantages to eliminate problems (ie push/pull) go dogless, its a simple technology that eliminates makeshift repairs to the materials or design of a stock trap with a dog
|
|
|
Post by Wright Brothers on Dec 26, 2012 8:37:13 GMT -6
Never set one so will ask, With the Montanas. Does the pan drop when pressing down on jaws while bedding like the Montgomeries? I've seen very few Montanas for sale near me. I bet if more dealers stocked them, more folks would switch.
I sold off most of my dogless, for the second time in my life. IMO the montgomeries are worth more in cash than using them. Really liked the high lever models.
|
|
|
Post by trappnman on Dec 26, 2012 8:51:33 GMT -6
I really couldn't tell you that WB- I don't press down on the jaws very much when bedding, I twist them in- but I can say I don't notice it happening
|
|
|
Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 26, 2012 10:27:01 GMT -6
I can beef up the dogs or buy heavier dogs no big deal to me. Some spend time filing notches others spend time putting on better dogs or beefing up dogs. Once braised/ welded your done. Just never cared for the rounded jaw face of the Montana's. or them being a lugged offset. Plus the 3 Bridger has a larger jaw spread.
PIT's have worked great thru the years even on 3 day checks.
|
|
|
Post by Possum on Dec 26, 2012 10:28:51 GMT -6
So you guys really think when a trap fires on a "traditional" trap it pops the foot out of a trap and the animal escapes? Any animal, but coyotes in particular? I have nothing against dogless traps. They are a good idea to solve that one in ? occurance where the dog causes a loss. What kind of odds are you thinking? 1 in 10, 1 in 20 - 100? I don't think I've ever checked a trap, found it sprung and thought, "damn dog did it again." I put my dog pointing at the hole. I use a fairly stiff pan tension on coyotes. If they are standing on the trap hard enough to push the pan, I'd think the most likely result would be a toe-whack as the trap fires. A sore toe quickly becomes the least of that coyote's worry.
|
|
|
Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 26, 2012 10:33:15 GMT -6
Possum not worried about throwing a foot at all, just that one step that Might land on the very top of the pan and dog. So something blocking the dog keeps the foot on the pan. More of a issue of weight and trap going snap not throwing a foot for me.
|
|
|
Post by GaTrapper on Dec 26, 2012 10:38:39 GMT -6
TC39, how do you go about adjusting the pan height with the vice grips?
|
|
|
Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 26, 2012 19:56:38 GMT -6
By bending the back frame of the trap, a little will move the pan enough. The trick is to give enough clearance for the dog eye and the lam's and still get the pan lowered . That is why I close my dog eye's just to the point where they don't hang up on the back frame. That gives you enough to get the pans just below jaw level.
Ed M is making step down pans but not for the 3 bridgers as of yet. That way one wouldn't have as much inital work, but it doesn't take much to get them a shade below the jaws or side frame.
|
|
|
Post by Possum on Dec 27, 2012 10:00:00 GMT -6
TC39: What you said didn't compute. Explain again.
|
|
|
Post by trappincoyotes39 on Dec 27, 2012 14:22:07 GMT -6
easy by moving the dog you move the pan's height that is done where the dog connects to the back frame. moving back raises pan moving back frame forward lowers the pan. Your doing it all by moving the dog either forward or back ward.
On a PIT you move the height of the pan where it sits by the dog distance to or away from the pan contact.
Plain as mud right? LOL
|
|
|
Post by GaTrapper on Dec 27, 2012 14:50:26 GMT -6
Makes much more sense TC lol.
|
|
|
Post by rk660 on Jan 12, 2013 22:28:42 GMT -6
TC, ive been making oversized spring pins for 3 bridgers for a few guys. 1/4" round stock, and about 1/4 longer than stock, ive been keeping extra 100 on hand to supply fairly quickly now as get requests 3-4 x a year for them, $1.00 ea.
|
|