Let us converse over wire screen....

[toddh]

I have conversed with a few that use it and scanned the archives but don't see mention of anyone using it with MB650s or MJ style traps that do not have a loose jaw. Anyone have any insight they'd care to share?

Thanks.

[Rod17]

I have a bunch of MJs and I use waxed canvas cut to fit the jaws and trigger. It works perfect. Sorry it's not a direct answer about wire screen but, although I have used black steel screen with #3 and #4 Bridgers, I personally think its more trouble than it's worth.

[toddh]

I've used wire screen on dogged traps before but have had issues using it successfully on MB model traps.

Anyone else?

[trappincoyotes39]

I don't thin k the screen benefits you when using a trap with a proper sized pan in comaprison to the jaws. Meaning the pan pressure and size of the sterling pan inside the jaws I don't see where it is a benefit.

Even with a 3 bridger change the pan from the standard to a PIT pan with good pan tensions and increasing the size of the pan makes them not needed IMO only.

The standard PIT adds length and width over a standard bridger pan and you can get an oversized PIT the 9C pan which inceases the area by 20% or more.

I have always went with the standard PIT pans and guiding. I'm not a screen guy either as the benefit I just didn't see it. Others swear by screen as a benefit and don't set without it.

I'm cheap and easy LOL. Coffee filters do well by me. Solid packed inside and out of the jaws.

[trappnman]

the benefits of screen are well known

I wouldn't set without it on the montanas, similar sized traps

[Aaron.F]

I am using #3 Montanas this year for the first time. I like the look of the traps and the idea of dogless, but I tried the screen and must be doing something wrong, because I can't get it to lay flat. Also having trouble with pan tension. Any help is appreciated

[trappnman]

pan tension can be adjusted by filing the notch on the pan

Trouble with montanas, is the pan doesn't rest below the jaws, its righht at that level. I've found a heavy, thick screen to be nothing but problems, and a screen with a little flex in it works far better (for me). Used the best screen I've every used this past year- and that was going to menards and buying a roll of their aluminum replacement screen and I found it to be stiff enough to do the job, and flexable enough to lay flat. another tip- is to place the "roll" of a particular piece of screen up, not down which would seem "logical"

[trappincoyotes39]

Tman you can lower the pan some if you wish.

[pettit877]

Dec 13, 2012 6:02:58 GMT -6 trappincoyotes39 said:

Tman you can lower the pan some if you wish.

x2

All of my Montana 3 pans sit below the jaws nice and level. getting them below the jaws and level makes it a lot easier to use the heavy ogorman screen on them.

Eric

[trappnman]

yes, I've been told that before, but the mechanics escape me- I can get them lower, but not level w/o a lot of bending

[trappincoyotes39]

Wood dowel is what I used to get them below and level for the bmp testing I did with them.

[trappnman]

describe your method if you would

[Zagman]

Lift pan up at 45 degree angle.

Place thick screw driver or dowel horizontal under the pan all the way back to the shank.

Pinch the screwdriver or dowel between the shank and the cross piece the shank is attached to. The pan itself wont be touching the screw driver, just the pan shank and cross piece.

Push down lightly on the pan....but firmly. You will feel the shank bending downwards on the fulcrum the screw driver has created.

You only have to do it a little ways.....play with it, each one will be a little different.

In theory, you leave the jaw/pan notch at the exact same place it was before, but you bend the shank downwards, lowering the pan at the same time.

MZ

[trappnman]

it seems pan always bends in middle when I tried that-

[Zagman]

you gotta push on the pan closet to the shank, not the outside edge.

[motrapperjohn]

What I do on the screens for the MB650 and the sterling is cut a square notch out of each side to allow clearance around the tabs on the jaws. The screen will look like an H when cut. For the 450 and the 550, cut only one side. You will cut out about 1 1/4" square out of each side. This will allow plenty to pull tight under the jaws to eliminate the bubble, then sift fine dirt dirt over pan to fill the rest of void between screen and pan.

[Nick C]

You cannot get the Montanas adjusted correctly. And by correctly, I mean based off of a Montgomery. It cannot be done, period. No matter how hard you try, it's not the same. The pan will still sit level with the jaws, and not below the jaws like a montgomery.

Start using high lever Montys with steel screen, and then go back to a Montana, and you'll want to beat your head against the wall.

I got some #4 Monties from a Western connection, and these were previously owned by Vern Dorn, they came already adjusted, and it's a dream to use! 1/4" below the jaws, and stiff steel screen sits flat and perfect, I highly recommend them if you have the means.

I picked up some Montanas that Andy S had set up, and let go, and with all respect to Andy, he did Not get the notch filed correctly, and have bought new pans for them all. I mean those notches were screwed up for sure!

Now take a Montana and put a #3 Montgomery pan on them, and it's a way better trap for taking steel screen.

As far as adjusting them, I've been told an entirely different story then the rest of you on adjusting them, and it works great and consistent from trap to trap.

[trappincoyotes39]

Nick don't know about a monty and how much better never used a monty dogless, but I have gotten the Montana's down enough and I don't use screen I just don't like a high pan.

As Zag's stated this is how I got mine to set below maybe not monty low but lower than which they came from the factory. Stay back on the shank is best for the Montana's.

Each to his own I'm not a screen guy LOL. My PIT's are easy to adjust LOL.

[Nick C]

The lowest you can get a Montana would be a "flying high Monty", that's for sure. Side by side comparison on several doz.

[trappnman]

where are you buying monty pans?

yes, you can get the pan level, I know that, but level below the level of the jaws I don't think is possible. its just something about the design- any attempt to do such, resulted in severely bent pan shanks for me

While montys might be the best, I only have one and I do like it but to be honest, the montanas do all I want a coyote trap to do.

pan below the level of the jaws is only a concern if using very stiff screen- and I don't see any advantage the stiff screens vs a screen with a little give. Once the screen is tight and on the trap- its a moot point. I do cut my screens, now that I'm cutting my own, bigger than the precut ones I bought, this allows us to get both edges of the screen, slightly under the jaws- and its tight, no bubbles and frankly works quite well.

as in the shockspring debate- using the thinner screen casues no problems that a stiffer one, would eliminate so as such, its the perfect tool, for me

I sent a pm to "a guy" that knows all about adjustng such traps, so perhaps he will chime in