orcatdog
Demoman...
"Tallest Town in Oregon"
Posts: 219
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Post by orcatdog on Mar 12, 2012 17:16:15 GMT -6
The last two coyote seasons I have tried a couple dozen #4 Duke 4x4 trap. They sure ain't my favorite #3 bridgers, but honestly for the price they did great.
I want to experiment with modifying some of them for next year.
Couple things I really hate about them:
1. The goofy ofset jaw gap
2. Out of the box the jaws are sharp enough to slice a loaf of bread
3. base swivel system.
I want to experiment putting different / larger springs on the small spring side, laminating them, base plating them, and reinforcing the dogs.
Has anyone else farted around with modifying them? If so got any pics? Does not seem to be any parts / modification tools made for them specifically so will make or find what I need.
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Post by BvrRtrvr on Mar 12, 2012 18:18:04 GMT -6
I haven't used them, but any sharp jaw edges on any traps I get...I use a dremel or rattail file on, & round the edges a bit.
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Post by CoonDuke on Mar 12, 2012 20:50:23 GMT -6
I like a 1" vertical belt sander for smoothing the jaws. Just take the trap apart and it is easy.
Straight rod works well for lam strips.
If you put on an oversized spring pin, you can add heavy springs for helpers without the raised loose jaw problem.
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Post by tomcat3006 on Mar 12, 2012 22:02:57 GMT -6
I don't have any pictures but I have ground the shap edges off them and laminated them with 3/16 round rod and put PIT-Pans on them with rod dogs. This made a better trap out of them. I do the same thing to my #3 Bridgers.
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Post by seldom on Mar 13, 2012 7:49:26 GMT -6
I like a 1" If you put on an oversized spring pin, you can add heavy springs for helpers without the raised loose jaw problem. Yes, I've done that. If you don't want to up-size the spring pin you can make spring pin clips out of 1/8"x1/2" bar with a hole at each end to accept tne spring pin ends and ten add a small tack at tne end of tne cross arm to hold the torque. Both methods work fine. |
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Post by seldom on Mar 13, 2012 8:08:15 GMT -6
Here's 5 doz I bought on sale for $99.99 ladt spring and I did the listed mods for less than $1.75/ea Built 1/4" spring pins Added base plates Added 1/4" sq stock outside lams Changed center connector to what I like Put PIT connector at chain end Added two crunch-proofs with two links in between Reinforced the dogs Added #1.5 music wire springs as helpers Tacked frame cross Tacked dog yoke These are modified just about(inside/outsidevlams) exactly as my #3 Bridgers and they perform the very same! Makes no difference hitch trap I grab! Over the years I've listened pretty darn close to what RobertW and Beav have to say on traps. Now Beav may be a little bit of a bullchitter but I know he knows traps. All I was looking for was a good, baseline trap that offered value cheap, since it's a non-issue for me to do any and all modifications I desire I bought the Dukes. One of my better investments!!! BTW, I'm always asked "Hey where's your D-ring?" and. I say "screw your D-ring, I don't need it!"        |
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Post by trappnman on Mar 13, 2012 8:48:56 GMT -6
hey seldom- why don't you come over for a few days and fish.
PS- bring your welder just in case.............
real nice work!
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Post by ryanf73 on Mar 13, 2012 9:20:24 GMT -6
Very nice I have about 100 to do this summer!!
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orcatdog
Demoman...
"Tallest Town in Oregon"
Posts: 219
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Post by orcatdog on Mar 13, 2012 9:51:19 GMT -6
Seldom,
You hit the nail on the head for what I was looking for. Thank you for the pics and the post.
So with the 1.5 music wire springs, and your square and round stock, you said you did everything for under $2.00 a trap?
Did you still leave the "factory" offset on them after laminating? Here in Oregon I have to have a 3/16 offset I think it is.
Everyone out there! question. Would you recommend upgrading the spring pin to heavier stock or welding a cap and tacking, or both?
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Post by seldom on Mar 13, 2012 10:13:54 GMT -6
Seldom, You hit the nail on the head for what I was looking for. Thank you for the pics and the post. So with the 1.5 music wire springs, and your square and round stock, you said you did everything for under $2.00 a trap? Did you still leave the "factory" offset on them after laminating? Here in Oregon I have to have a 3/16 offset I think it is. Everyone out there! question. Would you recommend upgrading the spring pin to heavier stock or welding a cap and tacking, or both? Under $1.75 a trap and yes, I was OK with the offset. I normally don't display photos of my work because my work is not meant for "showcase". On top of that, don't be dissuaded from doing trap mods just because you don't have a mig welder, all my work is done with stick you just need to be cognicent of electrode diameter and amps and maybe a little skill throwed in. |
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orcatdog
Demoman...
"Tallest Town in Oregon"
Posts: 219
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Post by orcatdog on Mar 13, 2012 13:23:35 GMT -6
Again, thanks a ton for the pics and upgrades. It's nice to see a final product and your work is nice! I'm ording some round and square stock as we speak! Looking forward to messing around in the weeks to come.
P.S. Did you make your own reinforced dogs or were those ordered?
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orcatdog
Demoman...
"Tallest Town in Oregon"
Posts: 219
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Post by orcatdog on Mar 13, 2012 13:43:42 GMT -6
Seldom,
Another question, what method did you use to get the square stock lamination strips to form around the curvature of the jaw. Did you tack, bend, tack, bend, etc. Vise grips, hammer? Your pics got me so damned excited I can't wait to start.
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Post by seldom on Mar 13, 2012 14:16:53 GMT -6
I reinforced with 1/8"x1/4" flat stock. I just pinch them of to length with bolt cutters and a few little tacks and the dogs at reinforced.
I built a jig in order to make nice "hot bends" on each end. I experimented with finding the correct radius of the jaws and once I was satisfied I'd just heat one end and bend it. After it cooled I'd do the same to the other.
As a tip, many folks who bend from end-to-end forget that there will be a "gain" in length so be sure and wittness mark your experimental material so that you can subtract the "gain". If you don't allow for it you can easily make your two bends but the finished piece won't match the jaw bends and that's not good. If you already knew about "gain" great but many don't so my tip pertains to anybody who wants to laminate.
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Post by tomcat3006 on Mar 13, 2012 23:31:12 GMT -6
You do good work seldom.
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Post by RiverRat on Mar 14, 2012 22:38:03 GMT -6
That looks like it could be painful to set very many on your knee.
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Post by seldom on Mar 15, 2012 9:59:43 GMT -6
That looks like it could be painful to set very many on your knee.  Ever hear the old adage-"If it hurts when you do THAT, than don't do THAT!" |
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Post by timwilcox on Mar 15, 2012 19:46:05 GMT -6
what is the jaw spread on the duke #4's ?
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Post by stickbowhntr on Mar 15, 2012 19:52:16 GMT -6
My stock Duke #4's are listed as 6 1/2"
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Post by timwilcox on Mar 15, 2012 22:53:29 GMT -6
if they were inside lams would they be NY State legal ? We are only allowed 5 3/4 jaw spread.
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Post by Brunner on Mar 16, 2012 8:30:35 GMT -6
I believe that the 6 1/2" jaw spread that is listed is the outside jaw spread. I also believe that like the #3 bridger that their inside jaw spread is about 6". With inside lams they then become NY legal.
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