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Post by trappnman on Dec 3, 2011 7:30:09 GMT -6
got most of my waterline setup ,and am trying to figure out the "best" places to use what colonys I have.
culverts and actual rat runs are non existent on my streams.
I'm left with 2 choices- straight down the middle of narrow creeks, and at bottom edge type sets with undercuts.
since I only have a few, I'd like to use them the best way possible.
for those that use them- given my 2 choices, which would you prefer? also- in shallow water, how shallow can it be? if just enough to cover trap, or with a foot or less of water over the trap- I just can't see them swimming to the bottom and would think that in most instances, they would just swim over them at the surface (middle of the stream sets)
my best guess would be set them at undercut banks- or more apt, where I have a ledge 2-4 feet high next to the "real bank" thats under water 3-4 feet.
any helpful thoughts?
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Post by thebeav2 on Dec 3, 2011 9:44:37 GMT -6
Fill the culverts with traps, do both ends. I'm serious. If you have small feeder type streams place traps side by side and block off the whole run. If you can guide do so. I caught rats In 3 feet of water so depth doesn't seem to make a difference. I probably missed some rats by not stacking traps on top of each other but I was very happy with just one trap high In these situations. most Of my traps were 9x9x30 I even cut some 9x9 sections of wire and zip tied them to one edge of the trap. Now I could completely close off a 24" culvert. I just spread the wings on the trap and funneled all the rats Into one trap. I only made a few like this but It seemed to work pretty good. But you should do both ends of the culvert. Or If funneling a small stream you should use the wings on both ends of the trap. These traps are a real rat taking machine. If I could find enough culverts In GOOD rat country I wouldn't even need any foot holds. I only used them In small runs and culverts so I'm not to sure about other uses. I did take some mink In them. My best was 2 traps on one end of the tube and two on the other end and on the first check I had 8 rats In one trap and the one next to It had 4 and the other traps had 4 more rats. Now 16 rats at one stop pretty good. I think I took over 30 rats out of those traps before It quit producing.
Keep your traps under water or your going to have rats that are tore up. In fast water use a stake down through the trap to keep It In place. If your trapping moving water In a tube set the lower end that way if your trap get swashed out you can find It And if setting both ends tie off the upper end.
The sky Is the limit when using these traps and I'm just learning.
Disclaimer I wasn't trapping In WI
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Post by trappnman on Dec 3, 2011 10:33:54 GMT -6
no culverts at all here-
and the small runs, don't have enough rats to trap (meaning runs where 3-4 traps would block stream)
have you used them as a single trap in center of streams? just go to the deepest, therefore fastest water? talking waist or shallower stuff stuff
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Post by packerfan on Dec 3, 2011 11:22:50 GMT -6
Channels in shallow streams/ditches. Weed channels. Better off using conibears for BE sets. Colonies work best on straight shots. No matter how deep the water, rats and mink will still "hug" the bottom. The ones that swim the surface will find my 1.5 dukes at their feedbed. It's a fun trap.
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Post by lumberjack on Dec 3, 2011 11:23:15 GMT -6
I cant speak for colony traps but some of the channels and bottom edge sets (the kind with no roof/overhang0 are set as deep as I can get and the rats swim right through on the bottom. I imagine that would go the same for deep set colonies in those type situations. Why not throw a corn cob in it if legal? A corn cob saved a rats life yesterday it got caught in the 110 1st (bottom edge set) and spared the rats life lol.
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Post by lumberjack on Dec 3, 2011 11:33:06 GMT -6
I had to laugh thinking of my area and colony traps (not legal). If I am lucky I average 2 rats at a spot in a 3 week period (mink trapping). No need for repeating traps here. All the rats in my county wouldnt add up to a decent size "colony".
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Post by blackhammer on Dec 3, 2011 18:42:20 GMT -6
In smaller streams regardless of depth you can see where the rats are swimming.Stick trap in channel,fencing helps,use your imagination and think like a muskrat.Bottom edge deals I tend to set more of then in shallow trout stream stuff were rock bottoms tend to make seeing a distinct rat channel visible.I use a number of them.If they don't produce I try them somewhere else.My goal is to try to keep them set at all times.Can.t catch fur if there stacked in the shed.lol The center of the stream in channels between the grasses will work at times.I became too hooked on colonies and set little else at times.I' have went back a little more to feed beds with leg holds and it's garnishing me extra rats.But I do love the colonies and bet I take maybe 75% of my rats in them.
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Post by musher on Dec 3, 2011 19:00:37 GMT -6
I never set the ones I made. I toted them for the first couiple of runs and I never found a spot to set them. They have to have at least an inch of water over them here. The spots I had thought of were too shallow. The other spots were, I thought, too deep.
I guess I was wrong?
Like Steve, I couldn't imagine the rats swimming on the bottom. I still can't. But we don't have many rats here. Every beaver hut seems to have a couple but then that's it.
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Post by blackhammer on Dec 3, 2011 19:30:53 GMT -6
The thing is most every rat a guy sees is swimming on the top.That is deceiving.
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Post by wbblount on Dec 4, 2011 5:05:21 GMT -6
I have always used dive sticks X over the top to force the rats to stay on the bottom. If you can see or feel tunnels in the grass over hangs they are deadly for rats and will catch any mink thats cruisin the bottom.
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Post by trappnman on Dec 4, 2011 10:30:09 GMT -6
Bottom edge deals I tend to set more of then in shallow trout stream stuff were rock bottoms tend to make seeing a distinct rat channel visible.
that about sums up my situation-
or too wide for fencing
I think those rock bottom creeks shear banks, might be my best choice.
does speed of water, matter?
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Post by blackhammer on Dec 4, 2011 13:03:59 GMT -6
No,just so the doors don't stay open from the current.I like shallow stuff if you can put a stick horizontal over each door can even be above water line to help make sure that rat stays off the trap.It can be challenging to find locations at times in rocky trout streams.I think you will find some.It may be a matter of having confidence in such sets and sticking with it and experimenting.
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Post by doyleflory on Dec 4, 2011 15:02:48 GMT -6
The spots I had thought of were too shallow. The other spots were, I thought, too deep.
If not under the water just scrap with your foot so it is and they will work.
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cmr2
Demoman...
Posts: 115
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Post by cmr2 on Dec 4, 2011 15:43:29 GMT -6
put it in places that a coni would go ,as for the the open stream its about the flow/current the rat is going to go to the place of least restiance ,slow on top ,med-fast will be bottom ,its a hard thing to judge as the current can change overnite
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Post by Scott W. on Dec 5, 2011 6:42:15 GMT -6
The current is also slow right next to the bottom. I did some swimming in a FAST western stream and could cross it if I stayed down on the bottom, but got swept away if I tried staying on the surface. Granted, every situation is different, but this really opened my eyes to current dynamics.
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Post by northof50 on Dec 5, 2011 21:28:02 GMT -6
Fencing 2 feet in front to get diversions goes to the wall when obsticals encountered' Dive sticks 1 foot in front, thumb size or they climb up and look, the top swim trench with waders botom to get them to follow. 1 inch over the top for no noses sticking out for breaths. up-stream doors with 100gm weights to keep shut in the current
block them with 330's cause the otter's want to roll the traps with rats in them blocking can be with foot size rocks, that may fall in place lots of luck
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Post by trappnman on Dec 6, 2011 16:42:37 GMT -6
well, I put in a few monday- put in as per a bototm edge set on banks that are fairly shear with a secondary ledge on along bottom. I'm guessing that success should be rather quick if at all, so I'll give them 2 3 day checks and then move them
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Post by northof50 on Dec 7, 2011 22:08:25 GMT -6
with your rapid rises in the streams after rains have them wire off to something on the bottom so a wayward branch does not pick them up and move them along. Another thing that I found is in the spring rut most males are top swimming and the female catch goes up.but with your season closing in Feb youdon't have that problem
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Post by trappnman on Dec 9, 2011 8:13:57 GMT -6
as my grandson says- "I did it!"
put out a couple of traps earlier this week, and checked them yesterday. on the first one, I looked down at it from a high bank, and said nothin'- and then we went on to check a couple of other sets. came back to trap, and I decided, looking at it from up high, to move it. climbed down the bank, and lo and behold was a rat in it that just blended in from above.
not a multiple, but a rat on first check on first colony. other one had nothing.
but- the learning curve has begun, and I'll get a few more out.
thanks for all the advice
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Post by calvin on Dec 9, 2011 8:52:34 GMT -6
It truely is a learning curve. Just a tool you have to keep using to get good with. Ideas of where and now to set them grow in your head the more you mess with them.
Admittedly, the big seed was planted for me by watching RKs videos. He uses them in places nobody thinks of on their own. Not your typical situation Steve, but I/m sure you will find areas they work for you there....and continue to work every year. Just as I assume you have places that produce for you using pockets, pipes or whatever. You/ll find these same places that you/ll keep tossing in a colony every year. Adds to the catch overall.
People will give advice and good advice but it really is something you just have to spend some time with fitting it to your area. I found it refreshing to learn a whole new system, myself.
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