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Post by trappnman on Jun 9, 2011 10:54:36 GMT -6
does any one have any hardset opinions on this based on plus or minus experiences with them?
I tend to use the smaller sizes- for concience if no other reason. and have never seen much difference in success based on the pipe size. all mine are say 3" or less.
have a bunch of larger sizes I see laying around, as got to thinking if there would be any advantage, in using bigger?
easy of bating to be sure, but also easier for a coon to get into.
I do think that a longer pipe sticking out, is better- I do best with 6-10 inches out of the ground/bank.
anyone?
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Post by Aaron.F on Jun 9, 2011 11:21:55 GMT -6
I am just an average part-time coon trapper but I prefer the 90 degree 1" pipe, set out in the water facing the bank.
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Post by mustelameister on Jun 9, 2011 14:02:16 GMT -6
I have these two pics stapled to my bulletin board in the office and reflect on them occasionally. Forget which month or magazine they came out of, probably Fur-Fish-Game, but they more or less about say it all for me. I like 2" pipe. If I've got other handy, I'll use it, but prefer the 2" diameter. This first pic is a good start for this discussion I believe. Changes to this setup for what I do include a longer section of pipe sticking out, like Steve says about 10", and I like a more vertical bank above the pipe. I've found that 'coon and 'possum will work this set from above if given the chance. The pipe, IMO, should slant down towards the water. Not 45 degree slant, but enough that a 'possum can't slither out on it without feeling uncomfortable. The slight slant also, IMO, forces the 'coon to square up in front of the pipe to either look up in there or square one paw while reaching with the other. I like the front-foot catches, so the loose jaw for my drowner set is just outside the end of the pipe straight down. The guide stick looks good here, with the dog on the outside of the set. The trap, IMO, is not set deep enough into the substrate. I like the top of the jaws level with the bottom and for sure the chain buried in the mud. About an inch from the opening I've got a 1/4" hole drilled into the top of the pipe but does not extend through to the other side. I like to dip a Q-tip into shellfish lure, and stick that Q-tip into the hole with some of it sticking up. I can go either way with the grass plug. I'm a believer in bait in these pipes, mostly carp chunks, and like to poke a couple of these all the way back. We've had this discussion before where there are those that bait and those that just lure. I can't help myself, I do both. I am blessed with carp. The other pic I think about often is this one. I've never tried this one. My set that is similar to this one is a dead stick maybe 2" in diameter or more that is about the same length. I drill two 1" holes on one side about 2" from each other and smear ground carp into these holes. I set it in loosely enough that when a 'coon gets into the set he can easily knock it down if he gets the chain wrapped around it. Again, chain should be buried and trap stuck in deeper, but is a good pictorial. For what it's worth. Love them pipes.
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Post by netrap on Jun 9, 2011 14:03:27 GMT -6
I have used a lot of 1" pipe with good luck. I can carry half a dozen in my pocket if needed if I'm walking very far. Also have used 3 and 4 inch with good luck. I think just the eye appeal alone is enough to attrack them. I know I have predug a lot of them, only to come back on opening day and they have all been worked over no bait at all.
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Post by trappnman on Jun 9, 2011 14:36:09 GMT -6
thats my standard set up as well, with the minor differences mike mentions. I like the edge of the trap, under the lip. I like 3-4 inches over trap, but will set in up to a foot without hesitating too much. Even in winter, they will work the sets. I have no doubt they would work the sets in deeper water as well, but them how do you get the feet down? nothing against bait mike, and in fact I use it either a lot of the time or all the time, depending if you consider fish oil a bait. fish oil and lure mix, is all I need in pockets and dirtholes. my catch doesn't increase or decrease with the additional of bait at these type of sets. Esp so in fall, early winter. but once it gets cold, i do use a lot of bait. Always pick up some prepared bait (I like a fishy/clammy smell) and use a lot of rat pieces as well. I think it does help at pipes because they can work it without get caught, so yes, an additional odor keeps them there longer. but if I had to choose lure OR bait- I'd go with lure without hesitation. that second set is a set that I used in a way for a time, but haven't used it as such for years. its just a version of the fish stick, a deadly set in my opinion, but pipes make them easier and just as efficient. You don't need a pipe on top of a stick, just have some 2-3 feet pipes- place them at angles in the bottom- so that 8-10 inches is sticking out, shove a good grass plus down to the waterline, and bait/lure as normal.
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Post by bblwi on Jun 9, 2011 18:53:32 GMT -6
I have used PVC now for about 8 years. The first 5 years they were all 2 inches but I only cut them 9-12 inches long. They work OK. but I should have made them longer.I made about 3 dozen 1 inch by 16-18 inches long ones 3 years ago. I like them a lot better. I can use on the bank, horizontal in the water standing or on land at an angle. Also I can shove a marshmallow down about 2 inches and it plugs the hole and I can put some of my lure, trailing scent mixture on the top.
Bryce
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Post by ohioandy on Jun 10, 2011 10:23:56 GMT -6
I have used a lot of 1" pipe with good luck. I can carry half a dozen in my pocket if needed if I'm walking very far. Also have used 3 and 4 inch with good luck. I think just the eye appeal alone is enough to attrack them. I know I have predug a lot of them, only to come back on opening day and they have all been worked over no bait at all. I have a couple that are on perienial trails that i never come out... did i mention i use them on dry land as well? : ) Some spots that are true dry land coon set, i leave the pipe in year round. When season opens i bait it again and they will work it again. Let their nose be their demise... I have a couple that have not been out of the ground in 4 years. The soil is stiff enough that the pipe doesn't even come out after a catch.
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Post by trappnman on Jun 10, 2011 11:55:02 GMT -6
lots of my water pipes stay in for seveal years. they are froze in too tight to pull them, and even with flooding they seem to stay. my experience is the same as yours as far as reluring.
no one has used bigger pipes enough to say whether the increased hole opening, offsets the pain to use (transport and putting in- smaller pipes i can drive- bigger ones I need to dig in)
reason i ask, is I'll take a small culvert, over a pipe if its there- a lured colvert will outproduce for me a nearby pipe-
so is it the nature of the culvert, or the size?
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Post by Wright Brothers on Jun 10, 2011 14:23:03 GMT -6
"so is it the nature of the culvert, or the size? " It's been there all of thier life, and it's a "flowing" scent cone.
That was my conclusion years ago when I noticed the same as below. "a lured colvert will outproduce for me a nearby pipe- "
As far as pipe size, or color, I have found that free is best.
I really should try the "perenial" dry pvc.
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Post by thebeav2 on Jun 10, 2011 15:57:21 GMT -6
I use 1 1/4 " pvc white Pipe. I cut It 14" long with a 45 degree cut on the end your going to dive In. I normally plug with wad of grass. Last year I tried a wad of coon fur It worked a lot better then the grass. In my opinion It gives the Inside of pipe some eye appeal. I think that Is very Important. It's like we are walking down the street and we approach a open door to a bakery The odors flowing out Into the street are over whelming we have to approach. But low and behold we get there and the store Is empty. No need to go any farther. Another good reason to use bait In all your pipes. I had a brain storm one year, I decided to fill the last 4"Inches or so of the pipe with that expanding foam. The plan was to keep all the bait / lure In the tube so I could pre bait. It worked keeping the bait In the pipe but when used In the water they floated away. Back to the drawing board. LOL
I don't place my pipe In the bank above the water line. I personally think you miss to many coon with this set up. The coon approaches the pipe It reaches out with It's nose to smell the Lure It's feet are still 8" or so back. smelling only a lure and seeing nothing to eat It moves on. Or It approaches the pipe and stands on It's hind legs and messes with the pipe with both front feet. Coon do this more then one would realize. More missed coon. If your going to set In the high banks use the punch and slap sets. They are much faster and will catch more coon then the pipe set.
All my pipes are driven In vertically In the stream bottom or near trails on dry ground. I will use the bank for a backing just like In using a small bush or clump of grass when your fox or coyote trapping. The use of a edible bait will keep the coon pawing around until caught. Lure can be used up and on the bank to act as a call lure. But It probably isn't necessary since you should be on location or very close.
Every one should raise some coon some time In there lives It will make you a better coon trapper. It works for me.
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Post by trappnman on Jun 10, 2011 18:22:22 GMT -6
don't place my pipe In the bank above the water line. I personally think you miss to many coon with this set up. The coon approaches the pipe It reaches out with It's nose to smell the Lure It's feet are still 8" or so back. smelling only a lure and seeing nothing to eat It moves on. Or It approaches the pipe and stands on It's hind legs and messes with the pipe with both front feet. Coon do this more then one would realize. More missed coon.
I could not disagree more. a coon will investigate that pipe, same as he will a dp. hes not going to be able to stick his foot in it, which hes is GOING to do, unless he gets in that trap first.
it goes without saying, that the pipe should have minimal bank access, and should be long enough to force the coon into the water.
99% of my coon sets are horizontal to water, and I know (snow hides little) I'm not missing many if any.
as far as an edible bait- you must have pisspoor trap placement, if you need a coon to stay there and "paw around" before he gets caught.
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Post by steve56 on Jun 10, 2011 21:08:33 GMT -6
i use my pvc horizontal also and use vertical banks and guides to force coon across the trap multiflora rose groes rampant here, and the branches make great blocking around the pipe it looks crude, but it works
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Post by thebeav2 on Jun 10, 2011 21:58:21 GMT -6
I have yet to see where snow lays on top of the water so you can track a coon. My system works to prefection for me. So my suggestion to those on this forum Is to try out both systems and see what works for you.
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Post by coalminer on Jun 11, 2011 7:23:29 GMT -6
I run 3 sizes of pipe -1"-1 1/2" amn 2 " all cut to 16-18" to fit in my bag with 45 degree end on 1 side. ith these diameters. they all slide into each other so I actually carry 3 pcs in 1. I like this set alot with a Duke 1 1/2 ir SC 11 guarding it in a creek. I don't like anything bigger in a creek, but that is just me.
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Post by mustelameister on Jun 11, 2011 7:32:12 GMT -6
Posted by TheBeav on Yesterday at 23:58I have yet to see where snow lays on top of the water so you can track a coon.
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Post by thebeav2 on Jun 11, 2011 8:02:05 GMT -6
That's Ice with snow on top of It grass hopper. And the set would be froze In any way
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Post by trappnman on Jun 11, 2011 9:09:24 GMT -6
coon aren't moving down the waterline in cold and snow- they work higher up- and are drawn to the sets. while they of course will go into the water, they aren't crusiing the shoreline.
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Post by thebeav2 on Jun 11, 2011 10:40:54 GMT -6
So then If that's the case all your sets must be vertical pvc sets.
but of coarse I'm going to disagree on the statement.
coon aren't moving down the waterline in cold and snow- they work higher up- and are drawn to the sets. while they of course will go into the water, they aren't cruising the shoreline.
I have found that as long as there Is open water along a water coarse the coon will be wading along It's banks and they will be In the water. It's the only place where there Is any food source. Now of coarse they won't be swimming but 4"or 5" of water Is not going to deter them.
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Post by trappnman on Jun 12, 2011 7:52:28 GMT -6
interesting-
I've trapped winter coon, ever since MN lengthened the seasons- and I've seen one thing over and over and over- and thats this-
in winter, in Mn at the very, very least- coon DO NOT cruise the waterline "looking for food"
I'm not talking theory, or what I think it is-
I'm talking about what I see, constantly and consistently.
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Post by thebeav2 on Jun 12, 2011 8:13:39 GMT -6
Well my observations are all together different In my area. We are still catching coon In Dec Jan and Feb In open water sets. You can see where they will enter the water On these side ditches and not come out of the main water coarse for 100s of yards. Their In that water looking for something to eat. I don't see any other reason why they would be working the water. Since the banks are very flat vertical PVC sets will take these coon. Last Dec my buddy and I caught 105 coon In 8 checks on a open water line, every coon was caught In the water. That's not theory that's actual trap line results. If I hadn't left for SC In Jan I would have still been trapping that river until Feb.
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