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Post by lb on Jul 25, 2013 20:56:36 GMT -6
Agreed. Cover scents are kind of a joke. At least as it relates to coyote hunting. As they say, you cannot fool a coyote's nose.
However, I have proved to my own satisfaction that a mega dose of rabbit urine with a dash of coyote will check up a coyote downwind, long enough to kill him. But, 90% of my misting is done at night. BB
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Post by lb on Jul 24, 2013 17:22:05 GMT -6
First of all, MISTING as I have explained many times is beneficial, when a coyote is determined to circle downwind and you can't stop him. If you can get your mist downwind way before he gets there, you will have a chance for a shot as he hesitates, confused by the scent. That's all the further I will go into the theory, here, but it works, sometimes when an animal is virtually lost. But, to address the specifics of the question, relating it to deer hunting. This scent trapping stuff and so called scent killers is strictly meant for eastern whitetail hunting from tree stands where you spend all day on stand and are at the mercy of variable wind currents. The difference is, coyote stands are of much shorter duration and if you are smart, you will set up with wind direction in mind, no matter how you personally play it. But, you don't need to worry about stinking up the whole countryside in the 15-20 minutes you plan to spend calling. Besides, frequently, a coyote won't circle downwind until he's relatively close and chances are you have been busted and no amount of misting is going to help. A coyote is three or four times as likely to circle downwind at night than daytime, so that's when misting is most beneficial. If you want to read up on it, I can post a link. LB edit: take a look at this: www.huntmastersbbs.com/cgi/cgi-ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000049 There are three pages, all are helpful page #2 www.huntmastersbbs.com/cgi/cgi-ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000050page #3 www.huntmastersbbs.com/cgi/cgi-ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=7;t=000051related discussion on misting, in general. (three pages) www.huntmastersbbs.com/cgi/cgi-ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000958;p=1
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Post by lb on May 23, 2013 22:12:09 GMT -6
Mark Zepp is a decent guy, and not because he sent me a half a dozen calls and a couple videos last year. Every single call was quality, and well made. I would bet his howler is the same. LB
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Post by lb on May 20, 2013 10:39:03 GMT -6
I have an original Herb's Howler that I like, and I also like my Johnny Stewart Howler. But, the one I use the most in my Higgin's Howler, a genuine collector item. LB
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Post by lb on Mar 23, 2013 12:32:50 GMT -6
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Post by lb on Mar 23, 2013 9:19:27 GMT -6
many are being recalled
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Post by lb on Mar 22, 2013 23:06:59 GMT -6
Big mistake, mastermink. That's not a coyote rifle, it's a joke. Just proves that some people; you can't tell them nuthin'. I hope there aren't many hardheads out there reading this that think they know it all. If you don't like my opinion, you shouldn't have asked. BB
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Post by lb on Mar 11, 2013 21:36:57 GMT -6
Well, I do not believe in turning the light off, while on stand. It is good to have a rheostat or a pot on your light to vary the intensity. Otherwise, a dual light, one being a tight spot for actual shooting and a wide fog light for actual hunting. You need them calibrated to the exact same spot and a three position switch for burning the animal when it's in position for the shot. Then, there is the famous flipper light which controls a colored disc that flips on edge and becomes invisible, same thing, when the animal is in position for a shot. It's elaborate, rigged with fishing tackle cable and springs and the net gain is weight saving over a light with two bulbs. I use a dual bulb light most of the time. But, proper light technique actually means not spooking the animal by keeping him in the halo, under the light, until bringing it down for the shot. This is if you have a simple spotlight without any dimming or switching features. LB
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Post by lb on Mar 10, 2013 20:02:17 GMT -6
A high percentage of animals that hear the call will respond. Will you see them, or will you wait long enough for them to show up is another matter? They respond because of territorial concerns, hunger and yes, curiosity. That's an opinion, we cannot really know why a certain animal responds. LB
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Post by lb on Mar 9, 2013 17:56:22 GMT -6
It may seem counterintuitive but you really don't miss many animals at night. The eyes shine and they are easy to see.
Rarely, an animal is especially light shy or comes up a wash where you can't see him or the eyes. Cats are hardly ever light shy, you can use a very white bright light on cats and get away with it. You might lip squeak or use some other sound at the end of a stand, but I don't want to mislead anybody; the majority of your called animals, at night, will be easy to see. I guess that's where proper light technique is important? LB
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Post by lb on Mar 9, 2013 12:04:45 GMT -6
Yeah, Huber likes to walk. But, that's strictly daylights. At night, I believe walking is counterproductive.
The difference is, South Dakota is a lot more open and (yeah) hiding a vehicle is standard. In most places I hunt, walking over a hill accomplishes the same thing as walking a mile and a half in open terrain. In AZ, where I hunt a lot, there is so much brush, you can easily get out of sight of a vehicle walking a couple hundred yards.
Hey, dragging three coyotes a mile and a half is for the birds. Anyway, there is a vast difference in what looks good at night as opposed to daylights. Night time, wide open areas holds animals. Daytime, is when I hunt the bedrooms. LB
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Post by lb on Mar 9, 2013 9:38:34 GMT -6
That's just ideal, not something mandatory. We always change clothes at dark to night hunting gear, then change back to camo at daylight. This is truck hunting, I probably have not walked out to make a stand on foot, two or three times, ever. It's a lot of work and whoever does it deserves credit. I don't know if I would bother? Not criticism, I guess I have it a lot easier? The main thing is having a rig. LB
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Post by lb on Mar 8, 2013 21:41:30 GMT -6
All things being equal, dark blue or black clothing is by far preferable, over camo. Actually, red appears as black, on a dark night if you have nothing else. Avoid nylon, it's noisy. A wool jacket is probably the best, very quiet. A Vibram sole is excellent for scuffing dirt and pebbles, which will show eyes on an animal that might be looking at the speaker instead of the source of the light. Another trick is to hit brush or a branch with another stick. These are natural occurring sounds that cause curiosity and not usually alarm. These things are generally employed before breaking off a stand, or if you loose track of a timid animal. It makes them look. LB
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Post by lb on Jan 11, 2013 20:00:09 GMT -6
What happened to the initial post on this subject? Did somebody delete it? I didn't start this thread.
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Post by lb on Jan 11, 2013 19:56:41 GMT -6
I paid $80 bucks for my SKS about ten years ago and I wouldn't trade it straight across for a Mini14 even though it's a lot uglier.
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Post by lb on Jan 4, 2013 14:30:04 GMT -6
Forget the "realistic" pauses. I know it is counterintuitive but constant sound works much better than pauses. Some people don't believe it and some are hardheaded, but trust me, continuous sound produces the most eager responses. Don't give them the chance to stop and look around. That's what they do with pauses. They tend to stop and observe and sometimes you don't want a cautious approach....after all, they aren't stupid.
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Post by lb on Jan 4, 2013 12:10:03 GMT -6
Well, I was speaking of a dying rabbit, not a terrified screaming rabbit.
And, yes, I usually do not fiddle with volume, I survey the locale and select a volume based on wind and how close the cover is. If it's wide open and I can see forever, I might crank it up for the first couple minutes before settling on a more sensible volume.
At night, I generally start a stand with lip squeaks as I pan the light around because sometimes, you just get lucky and stop close to where they are. Well, it's not always very lucky, but something's going to happen in short order. Anyway, then it makes sense to begin at low volume if you can see more than 100 yards in any direction. On a Foxpro 24L, max is 40. I usually call at 24.
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Post by lb on Jan 3, 2013 11:12:58 GMT -6
That's another frequent mistake. Thinking these animals can figure it out. They can't. They will respond to coyote pup whimpers in the middle of winter when all the pups weigh at least 20 pounds. Some people want realistic pauses, low volume, etc. But, as far as I am concerned, they respond best to continuous high volume. Within reason, of course, but do not worry that your volume is louder than an actual animal. Also, the real dying rabbits I have heard, it's a pathetic little whimper, like a baby lamb, not at all like most recorded jack rabbit sounds, which are extremely loud and constant.
One thing to remember. When playing loud sounds, and you see an animal approaching....resist the temptation to turn the volume down. That is almost guaranteed to cause a coyote to hang up. Whatever you started with, leave it alone and let them come.
You know, realism is much overrated. For instance, there are many coyotes back east that will eagerly respond to a jackrabbit sound, where they don't have jackrabbits. I like to use a few African sounds and none of these animals out west have ever heard a "springhare" before, but it works great. Distress sounds have universal appeal, it doesn't have to be authentic to the specific country you are in.
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Post by lb on Jan 3, 2013 0:41:53 GMT -6
Just risk it, fellas. Experiment, don't be afraid to fail. I have had full, maxed volume on a remote speaker and had a coyote run in so fast and actually stick his nose in the speaker. It was actually too dark to start calling, which was why I didn't see him right away, that and a depression he showed up in.
On the other hand, I had a pair of coyotes charge my caller that I had turned on, but with zero volume. I couldn't hear it holding the speaker to my ear, (of course, I'm practically deaf) yet these coyotes heard it from over 200 yards away.
As I said before, it really doesn't matter, at some point you will be wrong but that's how you learn. And, you gain a bit of perspective. And, if you are still too timid, play safe and go with right in the middle.
But, volume is a very deep subject, we have hardly scratched the surface here. But, you can do everything wrong and it still works. Form your own opinion.
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Post by lb on Jan 2, 2013 18:29:33 GMT -6
It doesn't matter. Start low and increase to midrange, or start with max volume if you feel like it. My personal feeling is that a coyote isn't scared by a 500 pound rabbit. Low works too. It's up to the individual, there is no wrong answer. LB
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