Mink locations- Meeting of the Minds...

[Steve Gappa]

Mink Locations- The Meeting of the minds.. By Steve Gappa (reprinted from T & PC)

Mink trapping is perhaps one of the most mysterious types of trapping. Books, videos and demos abound on how to catch beaver and how to make dirt holes for foxes, but few mink books exist that do more than chew up some theories and spit them out a different way. I think that the reason for this is simple- mink trapping itself is simple. You can use almost any trap with success- no special tools are needed and few lures or baits are used.
Let me explain further. There really are only two types of mink trappers- pocket sets/bait trappers and blind set trappers. Pocket set trappers make roughly the same type of pocket set- narrow mouth holes, usually fairly deep about 8-12 inches, with a foothold trap placed in front attached to a slide wire or deep water wire. Not a whole lot of variation between the good trappers- a few idiosyncrasies, but basically the same. A bait such as muskrat or fish is placed deep into the pocket- lure may or may not be added- and that’s about it. Location per se isn’t really critical as the mink will work the pocket in most locations if they are present.
On the other hand, what controversy there is in mink trapping- usually focuses on the other type of mink trapping, that of the blind set man. And while a blind set man might use either conibears or footholds- it all comes down to this- a blind set man prides himself on reading mink streams and knowing mink locations. Learning how to read a mink stream and mastering locations is hard- its not something you can buy a book or video and learn how to do. Sure- a book/video might give you some hints- some little tips to get you started- but you can only learn location by doing one thing- getting out on the stream with someone who knows location.
On one of the trapping forums a while back, a bunch of mink trappers entered a discussion concerning mink trapping that I feel was THE definitive work on mink trapping. Serious minkers did their best to try to put into words what they saw and felt out on the mink line. The words “wish I could show you” were repeated often enough, that a novel concept was born. At the FTA convention in PA during June of 2003, several of the posters in the discussion would all be present at the same time. It was decided to have a field day- a day out on the creeks with a bunch of different mink trappers to have each actually show what he had earlier talked about.
The mink trappers that took place in this field day were (along with their internet handles) Jim Witmer (NittneyLion), Glen Koons (OldMink), Mark Stackhouse (Minker), Randy Schworm (Computerhater), Mark Basinger (mb)
and myself (trappnman). Jim was our host and even with the rain soaked streams (you might remember we had a little rain in PA last June) was able to take us to a couple of his mink trapping locations.
The first thing that was apparent was that while we were all blind set men- our tools certainly varied. At first glance the choice of tile spade vs. trowel; of foothold vs. conibear; of hip boots vs. chest waders seemed odd- but it underlined an interesting point. All of us were experienced mink trappers- and as the years went by we all morphed into a unique type of mink trapper- we had all found a style and set of methods that were almost uniquely ours. The reasons for this happening were easy to explain- freestone creeks or clay bank creeks, season trapped, climate, incidental rate- among the most obvious. And because we all had differing thoughts on sets and setups- it was amazing to see how we all looked at a stream different and how we all, for the most part, would choose entirely different locations for our blind sets.
Let’s look at one location- a nice little brook trout stream that was a classic type of setup. A large walkable type culvert emptied into a small pool choked with brush, made a nice bend then went downstream over shallow rocks. Normally you look at such a location, go to where you have learned is the best type of area to setup and you make your set and move on. If the location doesn’t have “your type” of habitat or structure, many of us move on to the next location. What was unique about this setup was that we had 6 good blind set mink trappers along- and all looked at it just a little differently. Sure- the obvious sets jumped out at us all- certain spots such under roots, along grasses, tunnels, natural pockets, etc- are standard and any good blind set man would set them up. But what about if those obvious sets weren’t there? What if we had access to good water- but our favorite type of set can’t be made? What do we do then? Well, if you are lucky and have a fair bit of territory, you can just move a little- find a spot nearby where your sets will work, and put them in. But what about if you just can’t made your usual sets- what then?

[Steve Gappa]

Part 2-

The first thing that we all agreed on - was that if you didn’t have exactly what you needed insofar as habitat and structure went- then by all means rearrange it to what you want it to be. Using this pool as an example- a good mink location, but rather hard to set up- here’s some of the ways our little group would set it up. Since this was a freewheeling discussion, it was hard to keep track of exactly who said and recommend what- so take the following ideas and sets as the work of a committee and use them how you like.
Starting with the culvert, several possibilities were discussed. Some favored building up the inside of the culvert a few feet in with brick and sod. Either a foothold or 110 could be used inside the culvert by placing bricks to divert the speed of the water and then sod on top of that. You could get plain or fancy, but the platform made a good resting area- the side was chosen that seemed to have more cover at the ends, but the advice was if a new location to set up both sides. Close examination was also given to the entrance to the culvert. The sides were sheer and rocky- not something I would have set up. Short work with a tile spade made an undercut that was now perfect to place a trap in. Some of our trappers liked land sets, some didn’t- but those that did were quick to point out that either 110s or 3220s could be used to good advantage in the dry land “trails” running around and over the culverts. Using a bigger conibear like a 160 or 220 was a little new for most of us on mink, but Randy showed us 2 quick fixes for the “too big for mink” concern. First of all, he used guide sticks around the 160- diagonally though the trap like a beaver set to cut down the corners and to stabilize- then, an important step, he starts the trigger until it gets that “free swing” just before the trap fires. Try this with a stick- you will see what I mean. The trigger is tight…slowly push it with a stick until it starts to move....then, briefly like a green sunset on the ocean…it reaches a point where it has free movement to a limited degree- the place where the trigger is 99% lifted. By doing this, you remove all the resistance to the trigger. A 220 set with a stiff trigger might take a pretty good push by a mink- maybe even so stiff the trap doesn’t fire. But by making a hair-trigger, the mink trip the trap before they know it. A good tip.
Downstream from the culvert, several other possibilities were discussed. Glen likes to use 110s in bottom edge sets, and proceeded to show us a possible set location that still amazes me. I had thought bottom edge sets for the most to be deep water sets- or half in/half out trail sets. Jim and Mark are standing by a rock in one of the photos. This rock was the basis for several sets. We were discussing some possibilities, when Glenn remarked- “why go to all that work- just set a BE set”. This rock was sitting in 6-7 inches of water. Glenn said , “Just put a 110 next to the rock between the rock and the bank. While not the ideal BE set- enough mink would hunt these rocks for crayfish and other little critters.” Just seeing this one example of a non conventional BE set opened up my mind to a lot of possibilities.
Others looked at this rock in other ways. The rock could be moved closer to the bank- creating a tunnel effect. You could take your spade, cut a slot in the bank and place the rock in it so it overhangs the bank, making a nice resting spot set. You could also gather a dozen or so of these size rocks and make a opened ended, opened roofed rock tunnel in the center of the creek- an old “secret” set.
Structure location was almost a given for most of us. If you can’t find that perfect location- make it. Many of the mink books show structure changing on mink lines to be a time consuming complicated process- digging tunnels, boarding over springs, etc. While this might be appropriate in some locations and perhaps even needed, it doesn’t have to be that way. Many times on the line, it can be as simple as cutting a weed clump and importing it to a location- so that instead of a bare, uninviting bank- you now have an excellent set location- one appealing to a couple of mink instincts- certainly something any mink traveling the stream will investigate. On my line, vertical banks are somewhat common and I set up every one. Either a conibear or more often a foothold - tight against the bank with a guide stick next to the trap on the water side. I usually take my boot or hand and make just a little indentation in the bank if using footholds. But if that vertical bank doesn’t exist- make one. With a tile spade, you can make a 15 foot stretch of bank vertical- and the mink with run your new wall the same if it had been there forever. Another quick structure change on bare banks- find some logs. They don’t have to be hollow- just logs from as big around as you arm on up to as big as you can drag. Lay these against the bank so the bottom is in water and the top is on the bank. Washing away isn’t a problem for me- but if it is for you, stake the log. A slight indentation in the bank, a foothold and viola! - a perfect blind set.
If you have absolutely nothing to work with- turn to the land as Randy and Mark suggest with either conibears or footholds- it doesn’t really matter. Both are extremely effective. Conibears are the obvious answer for trail sets- but footholds also work well in blind sets. Don’t forget dirt holes they cautions- those that try dirt holes for mink are pleasantly surprised. Dirtholes next to or under logs work good- as do smaller dirtholes dug into the side of bigger holes like old beaver dens. Footholds set back inside these bigger holes become somewhat waterproof.
So while you might not have the advantage of getting out into the field with a bunch of mink trappers- the lesson we learned are lessons you too can apply to your line. To begin with- don’t get too focused on one style and one method. While your particular style might produce very well- its smart to have some alternative sets in mind. AS our group pointed out- by looking at things a little differently- the amount of potential sets multiplied. We all remarked- “I’m going to try that one that one location I never could get set up..” All in all- an enjoyable afternoon. I hope you got a few tips