Post by Steve Gappa on Feb 13, 2004 7:29:58 GMT -6
Canine Troubleshooting- reprinted from the November 2002 issue of Trapper and Predator Caller.
Troubleshooting is something that all trappers go through during their trapping careers. What is troubleshooting? Well, as Chilton’s Motorcycling Troubleshooting guide says, “While troubleshooting does not constitute an exact science by any means, there are certain steps that need to be taken first, depending on the nature of the problem”. This guide goes on to say, “successful troubleshooting must be based in some measure on your own awareness, and it should proceed in a logical manner.” Chilton’s also states “troubleshooting is not just an automatic series of steps which will inevitably lead you to the source of the problem- but a process which must begin with a few common sense directions on your part.” While this advice and approach to troubleshooting is directed to working on motorcycles, the basic philosophy and thoughts are the same when applied to a trapline.
Trouble on a trapline first appears in one or two forms- 1) the target animals aren’t being held after being caught or 2) the target animals are approaching the sets, but not working them and thus getting caught. This is really two separate issues and we should look at them that way.
The first issue is really a mechanical one- and a little observation and thought on your part should isolate the problems and lead to a correction. Losses from mechanical reasons include improperly adjusted traps, improper traps for the target animal, and losses from trap breakdowns. If you are concerned about mechanical trouble shooting, there are several books available that look at such issues in detail. A very good book that covers most of these issues is Charles Dobbins “Adjustment of Leghold Traps for Greater Profit”. I highly recommend it. In addition to trap adjustment problems, improper traps for the target species must be looked at. Again every method book recommends certain traps for certain species- as do the archives on the various trapping forums. If you suspect your traps themselves are the problem, consult one of these sources.
The second issue is what I am more concerned with and what I would like to discuss in this article- that is animals refusing to work your set and/or pattern. While this can certainly be a problem in water trapping- it can usually be solved quite easily by changing or using guides.
In this article, I will concentrate on troubleshooting traps on land. Trouble on a canine line usually comes in a couple of ways- 1) a canine approaches your set but does not work it or 2) he works the set- but either walks around the trap, digs it up to some degree or works the set from the side.
Your first indication that you have problems on your line is when you start noticing that your catch is dropping off even though you know there are still canines in the area. You might notice tracks around your pattern, fresh droppings in the set area, dug up or uncovered traps or worse case scenario snapped traps. The first thing you have do when confronted with problems at the set is the same advice your mother gave you concerning trains- “Stop, Look and Listen” Well, maybe not listen- but the point is that to be an effective troubleshooter you need to think and to look at the evidence. What you see before you start messing with the set is the information you need to solve your problem. Remember that problems at one or two sets doesn’t really mean too much. Isolated occurrences are just that- isolated and to me at least aren’t worth worrying about. What I am talking about mainly is reoccurring patterns- especially when you weren’t having problems and now you are.
The first indication of a problem is when you come to an unsuccessful set and think to yourself- “Boy, I sure seem to be getting a lot of this lately“ In a general way you have noticed a pattern starting to develop. When this thought strikes you- its time to go to work. If you haven’t touched the set yet- look at it and the surrounding area very closely. I sit back away and study the sets for a few minutes. Look for tracks, kickbacks, diggings, exposed trap parts, etc. if the set was worked. Where are the tracks relative to the set? Was he just unlucky or did he avoid the trap? If the trap was snapped where was it? Pulled out of the bed or lying on top of it? Are there hairs in the trap? If the canine avoided the set, what were his reactions? Did he just ignore it, spooked by it, inspect it for a while before moving on? Careful looking will show tracks that will give you an indication of his attitude. To help you troubleshoot your line, I am going to list some common problems, indications of these problems and possible solutions. One very important thing to keep in mind is to change just ONE thing at a time. That way you will know if your change was the solution or not. Multiple changes at once tell you nothing about how to cure the problem in the future.
A) Sets are untouched, tracks in the area but not close to the set: 1) Location- this could simply be a case of being too far off of location. Change location to areas where sign is present. 2) Sets constructed in such a way that they either hold no interest to a yote or they contain a visual or odor that continuously spooks coyotes. This is my mind is rare- but look at the set from a coyotes perspective and see if this could be the problem. Change or remove any possible offending visuals. If using a new unproven lure, try replacing it with a proven lure.
B) Sets are untouched, tracks at the edge of the pattern or around it: 1) It just might have been a spooky canine, and your set is fine. If the set is completely untouched, leave it for a few days and see what happens. 2) Here again your problem might be visuals. What doesn’t appear natural? Is blending inadequate? Avoid distinct color changes in dirt or straight line looks at the set. Blending should be casual- that is natural not constructed. If you suspect this- feather out and blend in well. If needed, extend blending out for several feet from the set. 3) Odors at set. If you practice good trapping techniques and have had no odor problems in the past, this is most likely not a cause. If you have changed something right before your problems started- equipment, boots, glove type, etc- change back and see if that corrects the problem. 4) Familiarity with sets. If you continually use the same sets in the same areas, you can find that “familiarity does breed contempt”. Mix up your sets-flat sets, post set, trail sets. 5) Lures. I suspect lures only after all else fails. Since most trappers use proven lures, I find lures are seldom the problem for this type of trouble. If you switched lures or are trying untested ones, go to a tested lure. Lure problems can also occur if you or other trappers have used this same lure over an extended period of time. If you suspect this is the case, change lures. Also try using several types and kinds of lures over your line rather than just a favorite one or two.
Troubleshooting is something that all trappers go through during their trapping careers. What is troubleshooting? Well, as Chilton’s Motorcycling Troubleshooting guide says, “While troubleshooting does not constitute an exact science by any means, there are certain steps that need to be taken first, depending on the nature of the problem”. This guide goes on to say, “successful troubleshooting must be based in some measure on your own awareness, and it should proceed in a logical manner.” Chilton’s also states “troubleshooting is not just an automatic series of steps which will inevitably lead you to the source of the problem- but a process which must begin with a few common sense directions on your part.” While this advice and approach to troubleshooting is directed to working on motorcycles, the basic philosophy and thoughts are the same when applied to a trapline.
Trouble on a trapline first appears in one or two forms- 1) the target animals aren’t being held after being caught or 2) the target animals are approaching the sets, but not working them and thus getting caught. This is really two separate issues and we should look at them that way.
The first issue is really a mechanical one- and a little observation and thought on your part should isolate the problems and lead to a correction. Losses from mechanical reasons include improperly adjusted traps, improper traps for the target animal, and losses from trap breakdowns. If you are concerned about mechanical trouble shooting, there are several books available that look at such issues in detail. A very good book that covers most of these issues is Charles Dobbins “Adjustment of Leghold Traps for Greater Profit”. I highly recommend it. In addition to trap adjustment problems, improper traps for the target species must be looked at. Again every method book recommends certain traps for certain species- as do the archives on the various trapping forums. If you suspect your traps themselves are the problem, consult one of these sources.
The second issue is what I am more concerned with and what I would like to discuss in this article- that is animals refusing to work your set and/or pattern. While this can certainly be a problem in water trapping- it can usually be solved quite easily by changing or using guides.
In this article, I will concentrate on troubleshooting traps on land. Trouble on a canine line usually comes in a couple of ways- 1) a canine approaches your set but does not work it or 2) he works the set- but either walks around the trap, digs it up to some degree or works the set from the side.
Your first indication that you have problems on your line is when you start noticing that your catch is dropping off even though you know there are still canines in the area. You might notice tracks around your pattern, fresh droppings in the set area, dug up or uncovered traps or worse case scenario snapped traps. The first thing you have do when confronted with problems at the set is the same advice your mother gave you concerning trains- “Stop, Look and Listen” Well, maybe not listen- but the point is that to be an effective troubleshooter you need to think and to look at the evidence. What you see before you start messing with the set is the information you need to solve your problem. Remember that problems at one or two sets doesn’t really mean too much. Isolated occurrences are just that- isolated and to me at least aren’t worth worrying about. What I am talking about mainly is reoccurring patterns- especially when you weren’t having problems and now you are.
The first indication of a problem is when you come to an unsuccessful set and think to yourself- “Boy, I sure seem to be getting a lot of this lately“ In a general way you have noticed a pattern starting to develop. When this thought strikes you- its time to go to work. If you haven’t touched the set yet- look at it and the surrounding area very closely. I sit back away and study the sets for a few minutes. Look for tracks, kickbacks, diggings, exposed trap parts, etc. if the set was worked. Where are the tracks relative to the set? Was he just unlucky or did he avoid the trap? If the trap was snapped where was it? Pulled out of the bed or lying on top of it? Are there hairs in the trap? If the canine avoided the set, what were his reactions? Did he just ignore it, spooked by it, inspect it for a while before moving on? Careful looking will show tracks that will give you an indication of his attitude. To help you troubleshoot your line, I am going to list some common problems, indications of these problems and possible solutions. One very important thing to keep in mind is to change just ONE thing at a time. That way you will know if your change was the solution or not. Multiple changes at once tell you nothing about how to cure the problem in the future.
A) Sets are untouched, tracks in the area but not close to the set: 1) Location- this could simply be a case of being too far off of location. Change location to areas where sign is present. 2) Sets constructed in such a way that they either hold no interest to a yote or they contain a visual or odor that continuously spooks coyotes. This is my mind is rare- but look at the set from a coyotes perspective and see if this could be the problem. Change or remove any possible offending visuals. If using a new unproven lure, try replacing it with a proven lure.
B) Sets are untouched, tracks at the edge of the pattern or around it: 1) It just might have been a spooky canine, and your set is fine. If the set is completely untouched, leave it for a few days and see what happens. 2) Here again your problem might be visuals. What doesn’t appear natural? Is blending inadequate? Avoid distinct color changes in dirt or straight line looks at the set. Blending should be casual- that is natural not constructed. If you suspect this- feather out and blend in well. If needed, extend blending out for several feet from the set. 3) Odors at set. If you practice good trapping techniques and have had no odor problems in the past, this is most likely not a cause. If you have changed something right before your problems started- equipment, boots, glove type, etc- change back and see if that corrects the problem. 4) Familiarity with sets. If you continually use the same sets in the same areas, you can find that “familiarity does breed contempt”. Mix up your sets-flat sets, post set, trail sets. 5) Lures. I suspect lures only after all else fails. Since most trappers use proven lures, I find lures are seldom the problem for this type of trouble. If you switched lures or are trying untested ones, go to a tested lure. Lure problems can also occur if you or other trappers have used this same lure over an extended period of time. If you suspect this is the case, change lures. Also try using several types and kinds of lures over your line rather than just a favorite one or two.