Post by trappnman on Nov 23, 2017 7:52:20 GMT -6
6 weeks went by so fast- I think a canine line goes faster than any other type of trapping (mentally) because you are always thinking about the next day, 3 days, the next week insofar a weather, crops, deer hunting etc. It seems like you never live in the moment. And with crops so late in the field this year, it made it even harder.
Our #1 incidental was fox- we got 12- a few less possums and skunks, 4 badgers and only 4 coon.
we checked traps for 34 days, got coyote(s) every day until the 34th day, where we had no coyotes and only a fox.
This year was a good year in that the few different things we committed to, actually all worked out as planned.
1) using MB 550 helper springs on all the Montanas. Never had a loss all season. I did loose a couple springs during a catch, but easy and cheap enough to replace those few.
2) went to wolffangs 2 years ago, but still used them on 18" cables. Used 12" this year- difference in both going into the ground, and pulling was amazing as to the effort expended. And there was a baseball to softball clump on the end of each anchor as they were pulled- very solid and zero complaints. The drivers are junk, in that in 2 years, 3 of the 4 we have, have had the pipe t-bar break, not from being hit, but just the vibration of pounding.
3) We have always used a dished type dirthole with the trap close, but on the 2nd loop noticed a few sets that had tracks in the pattern, but not as far as the trap- so we made the decision to move the trap back, so pan is 10-12 inches back instead of 4-5, and never saw it occur again.
4) Finally, have figured out the final piece of using peat effectively. I admire those that claim they use a cup or two of peat over the trap, and have no trouble with avoidance or digging. I have just the opposite results- such use almost guarantees such actions. So long ago, I figured out (for me) that to use peat effectively, I needed to use a lot of peat. And I also quickly found out that COVERING the peat over the trap to the point its actually covered, is far too much dirt and it will and does freeze enough to prevent trap from firing. So a mottled look of site dirt, dry dirt and peat as a final covering, so that 75% of the peat or more is still showing, is what works. But there was still one problem, at least with the Montana traps, and that was that with peat, and with a screen, you had a "bouncy" loose jaw. We have tried to work with this for years, when I got the idea to quit trying to eliminate the loose jaw, but to accept it and work with it.
I've always like smaller, subtle guides- but decided to go with big guides (softball to football sized) so the coyote had but 1 place to put his foot- over the trap.
With the screen, we would lift the loose jaw, and at the corners of the screen, pack site dirt over it (cause its wet and packs well), so the screen is solid, and stabilizes the trap- placing the loose jaw toward edge of bed. The peat is applied under trap, and completely over trap. We then add a big guide tight to the loose jaw, and at least 4" tall. add the other big guide to the opposite side, then cover the whole extended pattern with peat. Instead of a cup, we use almost a full ice cream buckets worth. Then a thin layer of site dirt, a thin layer of dry dirt and a good handful of peat are put into sifter and shaken over the extened pattern, leaving a nice mottled effect, that does hide the peat, just enough to keep it from blowing away. Peat over trap probably 1-2" deep. This much peat, keeps everything same o, rather than parts of the set drying out differently, leaving trap bed a different color that the rest.
We had 2 traps at one location dug at. That was it in 4 weeks of using peat.
4) harder to set the 4 coils- started using screwdriver under pan, so when jaws down, easy to put up pan (we put screens on before trap is set).
A very satisfying year, in fact Lori said she enjoyed this line the most since we weren'y worrying about goals or numbers, just trapping best we could.
How is anyone elses seasons going? learn anything plus or minus?
Our #1 incidental was fox- we got 12- a few less possums and skunks, 4 badgers and only 4 coon.
we checked traps for 34 days, got coyote(s) every day until the 34th day, where we had no coyotes and only a fox.
This year was a good year in that the few different things we committed to, actually all worked out as planned.
1) using MB 550 helper springs on all the Montanas. Never had a loss all season. I did loose a couple springs during a catch, but easy and cheap enough to replace those few.
2) went to wolffangs 2 years ago, but still used them on 18" cables. Used 12" this year- difference in both going into the ground, and pulling was amazing as to the effort expended. And there was a baseball to softball clump on the end of each anchor as they were pulled- very solid and zero complaints. The drivers are junk, in that in 2 years, 3 of the 4 we have, have had the pipe t-bar break, not from being hit, but just the vibration of pounding.
3) We have always used a dished type dirthole with the trap close, but on the 2nd loop noticed a few sets that had tracks in the pattern, but not as far as the trap- so we made the decision to move the trap back, so pan is 10-12 inches back instead of 4-5, and never saw it occur again.
4) Finally, have figured out the final piece of using peat effectively. I admire those that claim they use a cup or two of peat over the trap, and have no trouble with avoidance or digging. I have just the opposite results- such use almost guarantees such actions. So long ago, I figured out (for me) that to use peat effectively, I needed to use a lot of peat. And I also quickly found out that COVERING the peat over the trap to the point its actually covered, is far too much dirt and it will and does freeze enough to prevent trap from firing. So a mottled look of site dirt, dry dirt and peat as a final covering, so that 75% of the peat or more is still showing, is what works. But there was still one problem, at least with the Montana traps, and that was that with peat, and with a screen, you had a "bouncy" loose jaw. We have tried to work with this for years, when I got the idea to quit trying to eliminate the loose jaw, but to accept it and work with it.
I've always like smaller, subtle guides- but decided to go with big guides (softball to football sized) so the coyote had but 1 place to put his foot- over the trap.
With the screen, we would lift the loose jaw, and at the corners of the screen, pack site dirt over it (cause its wet and packs well), so the screen is solid, and stabilizes the trap- placing the loose jaw toward edge of bed. The peat is applied under trap, and completely over trap. We then add a big guide tight to the loose jaw, and at least 4" tall. add the other big guide to the opposite side, then cover the whole extended pattern with peat. Instead of a cup, we use almost a full ice cream buckets worth. Then a thin layer of site dirt, a thin layer of dry dirt and a good handful of peat are put into sifter and shaken over the extened pattern, leaving a nice mottled effect, that does hide the peat, just enough to keep it from blowing away. Peat over trap probably 1-2" deep. This much peat, keeps everything same o, rather than parts of the set drying out differently, leaving trap bed a different color that the rest.
We had 2 traps at one location dug at. That was it in 4 weeks of using peat.
4) harder to set the 4 coils- started using screwdriver under pan, so when jaws down, easy to put up pan (we put screens on before trap is set).
A very satisfying year, in fact Lori said she enjoyed this line the most since we weren'y worrying about goals or numbers, just trapping best we could.
How is anyone elses seasons going? learn anything plus or minus?