mink99
Tenderfoot...
Posts: 25
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Post by mink99 on Dec 20, 2008 20:29:41 GMT -6
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wbg
Demoman...
Posts: 182
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Post by wbg on Dec 21, 2008 7:17:17 GMT -6
Although I have used 220's for fisher, I catch virtually all my fisher in 120's on leaning poles. You must have the trigger on the inside jaw with the wires bent back twords the bait. Failure to do so will result in misses or nose caught fisher. Not a bad idea to use cable instead of wire to fasten. I have all my marten- fisher traps set up with 3/32 cable with tree locks, real time saver and secure. I also set my boxes on smaller poles than most for fisher, about 3 inches with a slight lean, I feel this keeps their head lower and centers them in the trap better. I get very quick kills this way with a hodgepodge of trap makes. I would think even quicker with the Canadian traps.
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Post by makete on Dec 21, 2008 8:18:58 GMT -6
How do you all manage deep snow build-up on poles and/or ground sets? We could get 10 to 20 inches, or more, of snow in a days time.
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Post by Stef on Dec 21, 2008 9:46:17 GMT -6
We know what you're talking about here...same deal as you. That's why I like pole sets with #220. My poles or the trees I choose are almost straight up... not 90 degrees but let say 70 or so.... most of the time. It can take lot of snow without putting the big #220 out of commission. Fast cheap and it works.
The Belisle I'm using are all equipped with 3/32nd cable and swivels. I like to use horse shoe nails to secure them on trees and if thieves have no good plier or hammer etc... they cannot get my traps. Again, fast and cheap!
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Post by thorsmightyhammer on Dec 21, 2008 14:33:25 GMT -6
Here is my basic set Jim. Dont have to worry about snow much here.
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Post by frenchman on Dec 22, 2008 9:10:48 GMT -6
Any set for fisher will have refusals - sometime.
Best way to avoid them according to my experience?
- Big baits (the mroe bait the better) - Fresh bait (I know they eat old stuff, but fresh seem to score better) - Lots of lure (XLDC, Gusto, or anything else with strong smell) - but lure gets them close to trap - does not change anything with refusals) - Large traps (less refusals with 220s versus 120s). - low sets experience fewer refusals versus high sets - horizontal or low slope sets better than vertical or steep sets
I find that a fisher that refuses the set will be caught eventually - make sure the trap is ready for the next snowstorm - that fisher will come back then.
ps. One other tip? Double sets. I find for some reason they may bypass the first set yet go righht into the second set - identical even. As if you get offered pizza once, you say no, but then same offer minutes later, and you say, ahh, why not!
--Frenchman
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Post by Gibb on Dec 22, 2008 9:47:19 GMT -6
Thanks, some good tips I am going to put out a least a dozen sets on the ground this week. Now if it would only stop snowing, we have more snow already this year compared to all of last season. Cheers Jim
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Post by Stef on Dec 22, 2008 10:12:11 GMT -6
Up to my butt here Jim.... More than last year so far. Roof needs a clean up now...but no time for it today. Tomorrow will check fisher traps before Christmas.. hope to get a few of those black cats. Good luck
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Post by BrandonH on Dec 22, 2008 19:19:00 GMT -6
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dooger
Tenderfoot...
Posts: 23
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Post by dooger on Dec 23, 2008 3:37:40 GMT -6
I have all my marten- fisher traps set up with 3/32 cable with tree locks, real time saver and secure. Can you post pictures of this? I do the same, but I'm always wanting to see how others do it. My cable has a loop in each end. I run the cable around the tree and back through the loop and pulled tight. The running end is then attached to a crunchproof swivel with a quick link which then attaches to a 6" piece of cable that's perminately attached to the trap and also has a loop.
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Post by billmeyerhoff on Dec 23, 2008 7:50:03 GMT -6
BrandonH.
Nice photos. I grew up near and lived near Oneonta, NY most of my life. Went to school at Wanakena. Most want to trap high dollar cats out west. I want to trap fisher and marten in the Adirondacks. Big country, there must be room for one more fisher trapper if he's willing to get away from roads.
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dooger
Tenderfoot...
Posts: 23
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Post by dooger on Dec 23, 2008 14:32:36 GMT -6
This is the set-up I use for marten and fisher...160 Belisle usually, although this is a Martin Mauler:
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Post by makete on Dec 23, 2008 17:33:28 GMT -6
BrandonH how do you secure your trap to the tree/pole? You said solid as a rock. Got a pic? Thanks.
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Post by JWarren on Dec 23, 2008 17:59:32 GMT -6
why would they make it illegal to hang a catch off the leaning pole? not that idiots in legislature need any reason
tough law, have the refusals of a pole set and the rodent chewing of a ground set
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Post by BrandonH on Dec 23, 2008 18:46:44 GMT -6
I use finishing nails to stabilize the trap. Most of the time, I'll have 2 nails on each jaw rather than the way it is pictured. There are lots of other ways to stabilize traps ranging from a beech limb to KB stabilizer's, killer clips, etc. But I look at those store-bought stabilizers the same way I look at buckets, cages, mailboxes, etc. They work fine, but who the f*&^ wants to carry around 100 of them in the back of the truck. If I was running only a few traps, it's be ok. But to catch #'s you have to set a pile of traps. All i need to be in the fisher business is bait, traps and a jug of nails to stabilize and 2" fence staples to anchor. I can walk in the woods with a trap in one hand a chunk of bait in the other->then be down the road in 2 minutes. Is the pole set perfect? Absolutely not, it is highly visible to thieves and there is the refusal issue. But it puts a pile of fisher on the stretcher every year
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wbg
Demoman...
Posts: 182
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Post by wbg on Dec 23, 2008 21:38:17 GMT -6
dooger; One of these days I'll have to learn how to post photos but in the mean time I'll try to explain the set up . I did'nt mention in My first post but all my traps are swiveled as well. Two or three links of chain then the swivel then a length of 3/32 looped through the swivel and permanently attached with hammered double ferule. On the free end slide your tree lock on, then hammer a stop button on the end. I have used a washer with the button in the past but found it unnecessary as well as a little more difficult to pass through the tree lock. I also tried the loop setup except My swivel and cable were permanently attached, on the other end I would make an adjustable loop with a double ferule and a stop button. I found this set up to be a pain in the neck, especially with a frozen catch in the trap, current method much, much faster. The snare shop has a very heavy duty tree lock, MTP. and Sterlings carry a lighter one that is not bent that works fine as well. Thompson snare used to have a nice tree lock, but good luck getting those people to call you back.
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Post by Stef on Dec 23, 2008 22:07:39 GMT -6
Just a few pics of pole sets on my line after a snow storm... Taken at -25C this morning These 2 could take the snow very well. Had a fisher last check on the 2nd one. If you look at this one before clean up... trap could work no problem. Same thing but pictures after clean up, touch of new lure and ready. If the tree is not straight enough.... this is what happen. have fun
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Post by makete on Dec 24, 2008 11:29:40 GMT -6
Excellent info and pics. Thanks.
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dooger
Tenderfoot...
Posts: 23
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Post by dooger on Dec 25, 2008 0:00:05 GMT -6
Thanks for the reply wbg. Sounds similar to my setup...sort of...
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Post by Gibb on Dec 30, 2008 11:56:00 GMT -6
My catch on boxing day, all in marten sets. XLDC strikes again Cheers Jim
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