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Post by braveheart on Aug 22, 2008 20:42:58 GMT -6
Seen in the new trapper a stand to put under a bucket.Harold Clark had Ron Hansen make him 100 of them 15 yrs. to put on his buckets.They worked ok .I guess they were way ahead of the game.
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Post by redeagle on Aug 22, 2008 21:03:39 GMT -6
A short section of 2 x 4 would work, too.
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 22, 2008 23:08:24 GMT -6
Drill a hole through both sides of the bucket so you can drive your trap stake right through the bucket then you can stabilize the bucket and stake your trap at the same time. Most of these gimicks are just window dressing and you don't need them.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 23, 2008 8:27:10 GMT -6
you can say that again beav. sometimes folks dream up the weirdest stuff to make an easy job hard. my pet peave is seeing ,and laughing histerically when I see, some "stake puller" that weighs 25-50 lbs and 8 feet long for sale for $79 or something like that.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 24, 2008 6:52:01 GMT -6
or, you could realize buckets cause to many missed coon, and use footholds.
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 24, 2008 11:32:06 GMT -6
That's another good point. But I do know guys that put up some very good coon numbers using some type of box. But not In this part of the country.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 24, 2008 12:27:56 GMT -6
I`ve never seen the need for a bucket or box. just set the 220 in a trail. I`ve done some tremendous days on coon roadlines with no bait, no hipboots, just dead fluffy coons in 220 trails. beav knows the scoop. it`s so easy your grandma could do it and anyone that ever tries it never messes with bait or hip boots or footholds ever again.
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Post by thorsmightyhammer on Aug 24, 2008 13:25:10 GMT -6
Buckets have their place like anything else.
I wouldnt use one early in season but in mid november on they do pretty good for me.
Put em below the base of a den tree, old houses, brush piles.
Get a little snow here and they dont move too far and trails are non existant.
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 24, 2008 14:41:53 GMT -6
You got that right Bob the good old KISS method. Dead dry coon Is the way to go. But In the north there Is that second season for coon when boxes will work but It's a lot more work. And I hardly ever try It
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Post by Barkstone on Aug 24, 2008 22:06:36 GMT -6
Yeah Bob, except for those of us that can't use 220 becasue of the law.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 25, 2008 7:32:45 GMT -6
I'm not sold on 220s in trials either- I've seen way too many times, where coon walk around it (tracks in snow). I used to use some 220s, a few doz, and while I caught coon, the number of avoidances shocked me.
and yes, I've caught coon in buckets- but as I said, I get way too many look ats and no commitments- and thats in Dec and Jan.
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 25, 2008 11:34:34 GMT -6
Well brushed In trails and 220s or 160s will kill just about every coon that comes along with very few refusals. It's those open trails that will give you fits. Those RBGs seem to make a big diffrence when used In trails. The round opening just looks more natural. Raising the trap up off the ground will help. I have been playing around with some wire enclosures and they seem to work real good. I take sections of woven wire fencing and shape them like covered wagon tops. I just place the wire over the trap and It seems to guide the coon right In. They even work In those open trails. The old rusty wire just sort of disappears when you lay them down in the trail. I think the wire Is 40 some Inches high and the openings In the wire are about 5" square. I use 6 squares and cut the first square and the 6th square In half so you end up with 4 squares and have Individual wires sticking out on each edge so I can force them In the ground to stabilize the cage. So now you have a cage that's 40" long and 4 squares wide. Just form It so It sits over your trap In the trail. It works.
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Post by trappnman on Aug 26, 2008 6:49:13 GMT -6
beav- you do any of this in snow?
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Post by mattduncan on Aug 26, 2008 19:34:25 GMT -6
steve the first wet snow here knocks down a lot of the vegatation and makes trail trapping tougher i think that's what beav is trying to get at when he says well brushed in trails i also just hate when the townships mow the grass on the roadsides late in the summer early fall as this also causes me problems i have a competeor who can't understand why i run my 220's 6 inches off the ground if he knew what i've learned from 220 ing coon he would understand are conis on trails foolproof far from it but when it's all you got it's like bob says make lemonade from the lemons
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 26, 2008 21:31:37 GMT -6
When the corn Is gone most of my trail trapping Is done to. But I'm hear to tell you these wire cages work. Later In the year I'm trapping high bank trails along the rivers or small streams. Here the brush Is very thick and I don't seem to have many refusals. And like I said try some of those RBGs they do make a difference
I would think that with high fuel prices they would stop this ditch mowing but no way. They cut before trapping season and then again during trapping season It will lose you some traps. On heavily mowed ditches I go to PVC pipe and foot holds.
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 27, 2008 4:19:20 GMT -6
I use a pretty quick 2 second stasbilizing blocking method that just eliminates crawl overs and refusals. you guys with no or limited success are just not thinking out of the box. you wouldn`t just set a #3 bare new shiny coil tied to concrete brick in a plowed field and squirt dead fish arouind and wonder why no coyotes and bad mouth the trap. same deal. use the noggin the lord gave you. geeze, do we need another 100 coon a day video? I`ll do it if beav skins and ups them. they`ll be dry beav, and no bloody heads. prolly be 2-3 big possums, and a coyote or fox and few mink once a week too, same way, dead and fluffy. ok the coyote will have a water head, lol.
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Post by frenchman on Aug 27, 2008 4:24:12 GMT -6
Ok Dr. Wendt,
What is the secret 2-sec stabilizing method?
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 27, 2008 4:47:08 GMT -6
just 2 sticks, usually handy to the location, but I always carry a bundle and a pile of set ( safetys on set) in the front seat, and a t bar ,or dog snap for fence sets. all in speed. in and out fast. don`t ever reset traps, throw coon and trap in back and replace with the already set one from the front seat. "X the sticks, trap up on it`s legs, weave grass, goldenroad, whatever is in reach to further block, using the x sticks as the frame , I`ve even used trash like old cardboard, hub caps whatever. that and key is setting the right trails. it becomes second nature after awhile and you throw away rhe snares and traps when you get spoiled. if coons stay up. I will do a short video on it, sell it cheap, like $19.95, make a few grand while the sun shines. and you`d be surprised the mink a guy gets in thiose 220s, running dry land trails hunting mice and birds. also count on several fox and a coyote a week. where you`d last expect them too.
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Post by ohiyotee on Aug 27, 2008 5:27:32 GMT -6
and in the real world ,,,,,,,lol......... ohio...... bob .... no 220 ... no 160 ... unless its touching the water , that sould slow you down a little
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Post by bobwendt on Aug 27, 2008 7:11:19 GMT -6
I`m not in ohio. that`s your bad
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