Dryland Mink: 110 Stabilizing...

[passinthrough]

I like to target late season mink in trails, along lake shores, etc...

I feel that snaring them might be ideal, except for the fact that it is an everyday check here in MN (110s are 3 day). That being said, I was wondering what works best for others in terms of stabilizing 110s in these conditions...

Thanks for any input...

Passin'

[cflann]

The 110-sized thin, metal rod stabilizers ( I call them Leflor stabilizers, but I don't know if Don Leflor still makes them, kind of like calling a bodygripper a Conibear) with the bent-over "handle" on the top are the cat's meow. Once you use them you won't go with anything else. They just make placing 110's on land easy. If you use 110 magnums, I've never had a problem with just attaching the trap to the stabilizer (ie. no stake) with wire.

[trappnman]

those spiders I used to sell by nick bower- are real mice- just set them on top of the ground, no insertion needed.

[passinthrough]

T-Man,

Do you have any of them (spiders) left, or at least a picture of one?

I have experimented with lathe, rebar, and combinations of other things; I am just looking for the 'perfect' solution, if there is one...

Passin'

[trappnman]

Nicks site

[markymark]

Those spiders SUCK, run a bunch and you'll find out. If your going dryland get a piece of rebar, grind a point on one end. Lay 2 sticks down so your trap doesn't freeze down, punch in one hole on the non spring side on an angle. Then one through the spring side. Grab some sticks to support your trap.

I get a pair of loppers, 5 gal bucket and take a walk in the woods, trim limbs so they have one piont, make them the length of the 5 gal bucket and store.

I had about 6 dozen of those spiders, they get all tangled up, trap wobbles and piss me off to the edge I could chuck them all out the window of my truck.

[foxcatcher1]

Now Mark tell us how you REALLY feel. LOL

[frenchman]

I am trying a H type with horizontal legs this year - I'll see how this goes.

I am also looking for one - concrete ledges, rocky areas, etc.

Speak up if you have the ultimate!

[trappnman]

I HAVe run a bunch, without ANY problems . You have to hold the wire at one end before bending the other- thats just common sense on a tack weld.

they get tangled up? LOL- What doesn't trapping.

rebar in 100% frozen ground? not me. But each to their own.

[Jellyhead]

For concrete ledges I use a piece of 1/2" x 4" plate about 10" long with two pieces of wire (or a coni-bracket) welded to it that the trap attaches to. I weld a chain link on the side to wire off too. When you make a catch, the mink falls into the water, or if you use them bottom edge style, the plate is a handy anchor.

I use a 3 prong garden rake with the center prong removed to lower the trap on the plate into deeper water on the inside of steel culverts. It works very slick, I don't get my hands or feet wet, and the rake is real nice for retrieving catches.

I think Phil in Penn. was my inspiration for that. He had pictures up here of a similar system. I use these on dry land also.

Aaron

[CoyoteMan50]

Aug 13, 2008 7:03:34 GMT -6 trappnman said:

I HAVe run a bunch, without ANY problems . You have to hold the wire at one end before bending the other- thats just common sense on a tack weld.

they get tangled up? LOL- What doesn't trapping.

rebar in 100% frozen ground? not me. But each to their own.

I don't have any problem with mine either. matter of fact I was just thinking about get a bunch more. Marky do you want to sell that 6 doz. you have??

[markymark]

They are sold. Now maybe the issue is me, but when your working with them in water and on rocky ground they wobble.

I like that KB with a Clefus helper spring. I know it's some work to remove the 1.5 stock spring on them but I feel it has to much pressure for a 110. 160 on up they work great.

[trappnman]

they work great on ledges under or half in water, trials are a snap with them. Maybe just you marky- the only complaint I ever had was if you'd grab the end of the wire and bend, you occasionally broke the wire at the weld. The 330 size works perfect on rocky streams and below the dam. wire the stabiliser to the trap chain in water.....

and no, I don't sell them.

[CoyoteMan50]

.well you use to sell them. thats where I got the ones that I have.

[trappnman]

yes, I used to sell them- I haven't for 3-4 years.

[thebeav2]

The best thing I ever used were rail road tie plates. Just arrange your trap on the tie plate and mark two holes for one jaw. put some bolts thru these two holes with the round head up. Double nut them so you have a nut on top of the plate and one under the plate. Now you can adjust the height of the bolt. now set your trap with one jaw up against the two bolts ( jaws on the outside of the bolts. Now mark the third hole in the center of the other jaw. When you dril this hole make It a bit closer to the jaw. You can all way's tap the bolts one way or the other to make your fine adjustments. Now you have great way of stabilizing your 110 In any situation. And you also have a built In drag. In water If It's a bit deep just build up the bottom.They also work for stabilizing bottom edge sets.
Little heavy to drag around but In hot locations you can just stash them at your locations when your scouting.

[mountainman]

I'll see if I can still find enough tie plates to try that beav. sometimes I used to find smaller size ones that were a lot easier to carry.

[thebeav2]

Those small ones work well.
Little touchy tonight Come to Alaska and chill with me.

[mustelameister]

This is a pic of my homemade #220 holder. The #160 holder is similar, and my #110/#120 holder is similar but has only one rod. Threaded rod and lath tossed in the dye barrel for awhile. Easy to make, cheap, and you can custom make 'em for the body grip you're running. Works for me.

[northof50]

Yea does the grouse season not start on the 15 th of the month in Alaska. Ya gota smell a little of the powder, and the fresh air up there.