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Post by whiskeyjack on Jul 20, 2007 12:18:06 GMT -6
New victor soft catches
#3 - coyote #1.5's - fox
Who welds base plates to either?
Does it make the trap overly/unnesseccarily heavy?
thanks
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Post by robertw on Jul 20, 2007 12:24:55 GMT -6
I have welded base plates to them.
As for weight, it all depends on how heavey of a base plate you put on them. On the older flat framed Victors I only use an 1/8" base plate. (I buy mine at Hill Top Cage Shop, 573-754-5962).
The newer traps with rib across the bottom of the trap frame I base plate with a rod type base plate, a link of chain acts as the attachment point for your chain. I bought these rod type base plates several years ago off of Pete Leggett.
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Post by whiskeyjack on Jul 20, 2007 12:44:40 GMT -6
I have welded the JC version on my #3. I ordered enough to do this batch.
Just wondering if it was worth doing on this new batch or is it a bit over kill.
Thanks
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Post by SgtWal on Jul 20, 2007 12:53:07 GMT -6
The point of the Softcatch is the least damage. Beefing them up offsets the design features. If you want heavy and real grap power why use softies?
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Post by bobwendt on Jul 20, 2007 13:29:44 GMT -6
ya, it is more than the rubbers that makes them softies. yes, it`s overkill and will disappoint you greatly if hoping to `live sale. you`ll get more damage with every extra you add. the more the more. just out of curiosity, what makes you think base plating will make them better? serious question a most base plating is to add strength to the frame when over powered by 4 coils. if you are doing that I`d just go with a laminated jaw trap and forget the rubber stuff.
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Post by whiskeyjack on Jul 20, 2007 14:14:14 GMT -6
Our Government tells me I have to use them. along with a center mounted chain less than 12" with a spring.
No live sales
I was more interested in strenghthening the trap than anything else.
I have never tried them without base plates as where I normally trap I have wolf and mountain lion and started doing it for my own piece of mind.
Just wondering if I was making extra work that wasn't needed for your average coyote fox situation.
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Post by bobwendt on Jul 20, 2007 14:51:36 GMT -6
probably not needed, but probably wouldn`t hurt either. I like robert w`s rod baseplate idea ,as lighter and dirt cheap. probly can just cut your own at home. I`d be more concerned with bubbling the jaw tips and bending down the free spring pin ends than anything, to coyote proof them
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Post by whiskeyjack on Jul 20, 2007 15:19:09 GMT -6
Thanks guys
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jul 20, 2007 16:23:24 GMT -6
I have used the #3 soft catch since their introduction and have never seen the need to base plate or alter much. They need some conners beefer springs on the older style #3 but the new models are plenty strong. Never had a yote bend a frame. If I bend a frame I did it by pulling the trap up by the trap jaws without a stake puller.
I am sure the lite weight rod center point add on Robert w refers too would be just fine and shouldnt add much to the over trap weight. I have seen some of these and they are plenty support for any trap IMO.
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Post by mattduncan on Jul 20, 2007 16:26:23 GMT -6
why not just use #3 bridger for coyotes and use anything you want for fox as they are not covered in our treaty with the eu
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Post by bobwendt on Jul 20, 2007 16:41:28 GMT -6
same as bob j. said.
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Post by sRc on Jul 20, 2007 17:11:59 GMT -6
Bob W You mention bending down the pin tips. I just got mine in last week and the pins are barely even long enough to stick out. Is that what you find on the older models too? There is almost not enough to grab with the pliers.
src
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Post by briankroberts on Jul 20, 2007 19:07:56 GMT -6
I better get my 2 cents in here about baseplates and what I think about them, not just on the softies but on most Coyote size traps. I think the standard 3/16 baseplate is just to much, I use 1/8" baseplates on most everything, except the Montanas( as there baseplate is thicker than most and needs nothing) If I want to center swivel the Montana I bend a 30d nail and weld it in place. The 1/8" baseplate welded to most traps is more than enough and weighs very little. If the proper chain length(short) is used you can probably do with out it all together. I have tried short vs longer chains, baseplated traps vs unbaseplated traps, shock springs vs none. I think the 1/8" baseplate 12" of chain with 3 swivels and a shock spring is pretty hard to beat. As far as bendint the spring pin down, if your trapping Coyotes , you better .....B....
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Post by mostinterestingmanintheworld on Jul 20, 2007 19:56:31 GMT -6
I like the thinner baseplates as well on the old monties with thin bases.
Actually I've been using the PIT crimp on's with a spot weld for my 3n's.
I really like that setup.
Joel
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Post by bobwendt on Jul 20, 2007 20:12:47 GMT -6
with big heavy pliars you can get enough to bend them down. you need a strong grip. you`ll get the hang of it. I bend my jaw tips up too, instead of bubble like everyoneelse.
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Post by rn on Jul 20, 2007 20:42:55 GMT -6
I bought 5 dozen this year (#3) and the jaw tips were turned or bent up pretty well.
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Post by robertw on Jul 20, 2007 20:52:34 GMT -6
The Soft Catch #3 that I welded already had badly bent frames and jaws. The previous owner only knew how to pull his trap stakes by pulling on the trap jaws!
As Brian made mention above and I alluded to in my posting, anything over 1/8" in a base plate is over kill and un-needed additional weight.
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Post by bobwendt on Jul 21, 2007 3:58:23 GMT -6
well geez-o-peat robert, you got to quit buying those stolen traps!
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Post by Bob Jameson on Jul 21, 2007 7:05:53 GMT -6
LOL, I hope they didnt come from Arkansas. They might be mine.
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Post by rk660 on Jul 21, 2007 8:01:00 GMT -6
Im playing with 2 versions of a wire base I will sell someday. 2 pieces 3/16 welded together side by side,and/or same thing only with spacer between them so D ring doesnt slide back and forth.
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