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Post by JWarren on Aug 13, 2006 10:23:45 GMT -6
I like a #220 for the sets. I pound in a 2" square wood stake leaving a good 12" sticking up, slip one spring over the top of it with the safety hooks on, then set the trap and compress the spring which pinches the wood stake holding the trap in place. With the regular triggers spread out in the middle I don't think a #220 will miss many, especially underwater. Had a few of these sets that had a mink or rat almost every time I looked at them.
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 13, 2006 10:45:27 GMT -6
JWarren That's what I was thinking. I would run the stake through the spring eyes drive the stake In bottom. position the set trap place your foot on the bottom spring and then pull up on the top spring to lock It In position. I will test this system one of these days to see how It works.
Gary
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Post by Freak( Jim V.) on Aug 13, 2006 10:49:07 GMT -6
Good thread! Been kicking the 160s for mink around since last season.Especially with BE sets. Keep it coming.
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Post by JWarren on Aug 13, 2006 11:33:59 GMT -6
JWarren That's what I was thinking. I would run the stake through the spring eyes drive the stake In bottom. position the set trap place your foot on the bottom spring and then pull up on the top spring to lock It In position. I will test this system one of these days to see how It works. Gary That would probably work. What I do is pound the stake first (chain wired to stake), then slip the spring arm over the stake, not through the spring eyes but closer to the trap, then hold the trap in position as you squeeze the jaws together at the top and set it. This will lock it in place. If you are tight against the bank, as with most BE sets, the spring opposite the stake will be jammed into the bank. I like the trap horizontal because the spring arms can block alot of space.
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Post by musher on Aug 13, 2006 11:45:33 GMT -6
Steve: And when you catch a mink in an otter/beaver set that is placed in current the mink is always going downstream.
I guess it's just easier traveling. ;D
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 13, 2006 14:41:17 GMT -6
Heres a stabilizer that I have used for rat trapping with 110s It works to perfection. I might be able to build some to fit 160s. These were made by Don Leffner (SP) I think he Is selling out. thebeav.topcities.com/GaryPics/b2110holder.jpgGary
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Post by Jeffrey on Aug 13, 2006 15:02:49 GMT -6
I know when I bottom edge beaver in channels in the winter I put both springs on one stick and drive the stick with the trap up against the bank, then a diaginol stick above the trap from the bank out to and past the trap stake. It works great also on rats and otter, but I've always done this under the ice.
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Post by psb1011 on Aug 13, 2006 17:34:13 GMT -6
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Post by seldom on Aug 13, 2006 18:14:52 GMT -6
Interestingly, while following along with this thread it appears to me that folks have different ideas or opinions of what a BE is, at least by the description of their personal setups. When Beav started this thread about using 160's in BE applications my mind immediately went to what is the vast majority of MY BE locations and I'd never be able to fit in a 160! As the thread progressed I could easily see where folks are describing their BE locations as ones without much, if any overhead cover. For example, bridge abutment corners are thought of as BE locations as are anything vertical by which the mink or rat has to swim around. This is one BE location that is readily adapted to just about any trap and since it's accessible from above, many different anchoring methds. The other BE location isn't so easy to setup. The majority of my BE's are back under something, a root ball, an undercut point, etc. These locations would offer more of a challenge to setting the BE due to the lack of accessibility which has a direct bearing and influence on the size and type of trap being used. Most generally I'm humped up reaching back under blind, hoping I don't go over my gauntlets or setting off my trap! Kind of like the proverbial monkey and football! Most of my BE's other then the "open-cornered" ones wouldn't allow the use of a 160 because of it's size. As well as screwing arond with the second spring and safetys. The very first thing I do while placing the 110 (with horizontal rerod) is to ensure it revolves (complete jaw clearance). Many times even with a 110 I've had to knock off the edges of the groove in order for the trap to fire unimpeded. I firmly believe a mink and rats swim tight against the short but vertical wall at the back of the groove/undercut and that's the spot where you can get a blocked jaw closure. I'd be concerned that I couldn't get a 160 in far enough (at least the spots I thought were true BE's and where I felt confident there was a mink using it) without jamming it. This inclination for swimming tight to the vertical should give you some ideas of trigger wire configuration and placement as well on a 160. With my system and 110's, I jam the rerod into the back of the groove, twist the trap to ensure clearance, pull spring down to the bottom and pin with a short T-bar stake through the spring eye and I'm done. If I'm setting up an open BE such as a bridge corner I shove the rerod into the bottom (trap spring up-trigger out) bend spring down far enough to run a T-bar through the spring eye and catch top the top corner of the 110 yet clear the trigger and into the bottom as a stabilizer and done. Again, if you're setting BE's out in the open and just against vertical corners, no problem, use whatever size trap you desire but back under where it's tight, I think you might but heck, give it a try!
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Post by jimdrummond on Aug 13, 2006 18:35:24 GMT -6
Yes, the current can be a problem, and all the rats and mink I catch in streams are traveling upstream. This set works good in ponds. Some places I trap have gradually sloping banks. This easy to fix by dropping in a few rocks or a cement block to form an edge for the trap. Set your trap on the center or closest notch to the other jaw, this will tighten up the trigger tension and solve the problem with the current most the time.
Seldom.... You wont need anything overhanging your trap, there are times where I have half a trap above water, not a good thing when things start to freeze but still effective before freeze up
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mean1
Demoman...
Posts: 173
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Post by mean1 on Aug 13, 2006 19:15:18 GMT -6
My 160 triggers i replaced with tig stainless welding wire, same size as what was on the trap just a little longer, i had luck with otter and mink using rubber fish for fishing on the trigger, I used silver creek chubs with a orange belly and small blugill, anything native to your creek should work. Try the rubber fish, you may be surprised at how well they work and always look fresh ;D. I mostly use BE sets after freeze up.
mean1
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Post by thebeav2 on Aug 13, 2006 19:55:06 GMT -6
Makes sense about the tight undercuts and the size problem with the 160s
Looks like I may have to Invest In a few doz 110s just to cover all bases.
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