Post by trappnman on Dec 17, 2005 16:21:12 GMT -6
If you have open water, at least in part, on your creeks, you can continue to use footholds all winter long. Unfortunately, its not quite as simple as setting traps nad just checking them- winter trapping in places where there is actually a winter is tuff- a lot of maintence to do to be successful.
Heres' a few things I've learned over the years.
1) Get out and LOOK at your creeks. Whether youuhave traps out or not, you need to know how each creek reacts to cold. When is 15 out- go check them out. When its zero, when its far below zero. What happens when it warms up? How many days and at what temps does it open up again?
I can tell you almost exatly what will be froze up and when it will thaw. Its a great help in managing my line.
2) Use the currents. While not a silver bullet- setting sets in faster water keeps them open longer.
3) Forget any structure that goes out into the water. Forget guide sticks. Make sure grass isn't overhanging into water. Make sure stakes, 110s, etc are not aobve surface. Any little thing that sticks up in the current- slows the current down and provides a place for ice to start forming. I toss all guide sticks in ice making weathe and replace i nwarm ups.
4) If making pockets- make them so that they angle upstream so the current hits them full on, causing motion in the pocket. Pockets or indentations freeze first.
5) ALWAYS break the set out and get it ready to go if possible. I've chopped ice many times, knowing it would freeze solid that night- and have fur there the next check.
6) When breaking shelf ice- break it in both directions from set- the more the better for 2 reasons. An extended grassy look offers better hunting locations to attract the mink to begin with, and the farther ice is away from the set, the longer it will take to refreeze it.
7) Clear ice away from the set area. You can push chunks and sheets under the larger ice shelf, or push it out into current to take it away. Floating chunks quickly refreze- send them on their way.
8) Once its done snowing, clear an area around the set of snow, and splash water on it exposing the mud or grass. Doing this provides a focal point for the mink, and the darker surroundings keeps the set open longer.
9) Generally, sets facing the sun, will stay open much longer then sets made on the shady side. Water depth, speed, overhanging cover, etc are factors, but as a general rule.
By doing the above, I can keep most sets open and producing throughout the winter. Sometimes, just a little extra time means the difference in a set being froze over- or a set staying open. At the very least, if the set does freeze up following the above- it will open on its own much faster.
Heres' a few things I've learned over the years.
1) Get out and LOOK at your creeks. Whether youuhave traps out or not, you need to know how each creek reacts to cold. When is 15 out- go check them out. When its zero, when its far below zero. What happens when it warms up? How many days and at what temps does it open up again?
I can tell you almost exatly what will be froze up and when it will thaw. Its a great help in managing my line.
2) Use the currents. While not a silver bullet- setting sets in faster water keeps them open longer.
3) Forget any structure that goes out into the water. Forget guide sticks. Make sure grass isn't overhanging into water. Make sure stakes, 110s, etc are not aobve surface. Any little thing that sticks up in the current- slows the current down and provides a place for ice to start forming. I toss all guide sticks in ice making weathe and replace i nwarm ups.
4) If making pockets- make them so that they angle upstream so the current hits them full on, causing motion in the pocket. Pockets or indentations freeze first.
5) ALWAYS break the set out and get it ready to go if possible. I've chopped ice many times, knowing it would freeze solid that night- and have fur there the next check.
6) When breaking shelf ice- break it in both directions from set- the more the better for 2 reasons. An extended grassy look offers better hunting locations to attract the mink to begin with, and the farther ice is away from the set, the longer it will take to refreeze it.
7) Clear ice away from the set area. You can push chunks and sheets under the larger ice shelf, or push it out into current to take it away. Floating chunks quickly refreze- send them on their way.
8) Once its done snowing, clear an area around the set of snow, and splash water on it exposing the mud or grass. Doing this provides a focal point for the mink, and the darker surroundings keeps the set open longer.
9) Generally, sets facing the sun, will stay open much longer then sets made on the shady side. Water depth, speed, overhanging cover, etc are factors, but as a general rule.
By doing the above, I can keep most sets open and producing throughout the winter. Sometimes, just a little extra time means the difference in a set being froze over- or a set staying open. At the very least, if the set does freeze up following the above- it will open on its own much faster.