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Post by CoonDuke on Jan 27, 2005 19:57:09 GMT -6
I know some real good blind set rat trappers who use mainly footholds and they catch very few mink.
I know some excellent coon trappers who do not catch the mink they should.
Many, many canine trappers try mink trapping and fail.
Why is this??
I also know some mediocre trappers who do not do particularly well on any species and catch more mink than they ever should.
I think one reason many trappers fail at mink trapping is that they do not give it 100%. They think they should "just come" in coon and rat sets. I am one of these trappers...LOL.
Let's hear some thoughts on why many good trappers fail at minking...
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Post by Computerhater on Jan 27, 2005 22:06:12 GMT -6
In a word, PATIENCE. I fight myself at times even though I've been chasing mink hard for 15 years now. I know patience and hard work are the 2 things I can control. Population and weather are two things I can't control. But, I still at times have to remind myself to be patient. I've trapped fox hard in the past and was rewarded fairly quickly with good consistent catches. Muskrats and coon come even quicker usually. But you can get a good mink line out and catch nothing or very little for a few days, sometimes longer. I think that is when a lot of trappers get discouraged and give up.
It takes a lot of time and effort to establish, maintain, and work a good mink line. Some years like this year it can take even double or triple the amount of work than it normally takes. Some trappers don't have the time to invest due to other obligations and some may just give up due to high water, sub zero weather, etc.
I've been helping a young fellow this year some with his line and I get a kick out of his enthusiasm. He was into canines and I've got him trapping coyotes next to and on a couple of my farms. He's caught 5 female coyotes at the one farm. Now I'm getting excited because I may have a few reds to trap next year. Anyway the reason I mention him is that he knows I trap mink and play with canines now and then. He has been asking a lot of questions about mink trapping and about two weeks ago he caught his second ever mink but it was his first intentional one. Boy was he fired up. Now the questions really started flowing and he decided he wants to be a mink trapper. I told him not to do it because it will become addicting and he will never be the same. Well, he went out and set up a bunch of sets last weekend and missed a couple mink. Now he is somewhat disgusted but is still willing to give it some more time. But, I could see a big difference in his enthusiasm once he saw where he had missed the mink. I could easily see him giving up on the mink and going back to the canines if his bad luck on the mink was to continue.
Randy
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Post by Edge on Jan 27, 2005 22:11:14 GMT -6
I dont set many mink traps;that cant help.
They are/were selling for about 7 bucks a copy.
They smell.
I cant skin them in the house.
Nobody will pay me to shoot them in the summer.
Good question tho;my uncle traps a lot of mink,every year,at least for my area,yet his canid numbers fluctuate HUGE from year to year.
For the most part,my heart just isnt *in* mink trapping;but I think I have found enough "should be open" creekds to run a good mink line next year;but only after the coon,beaver and coyotes are taken care of.
I *do* admire the minks mean spirit tho,quite the little scrapper...........hopefully the Banker will invite me on his line again next year and get me on the right track.
Edge
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Post by DaveLyons on Jan 27, 2005 23:17:54 GMT -6
Access can be a very limiting factor for a mink Trapper. I learned this the hard way. I got some good lessons on mink trapping earlier in the year. Then went on a mink trap buying spree for a short time. Then only ran 4-8 traps the whole season because access was very hard to get. I managed to get 8 mink this year on purpose never before have I ever set for mink on purpose. I learned a lot and should do better next year. With hopes of Moving from this area very likely to some better mink country. But I only used one set the blind set so I will do the pocket thing also next year. I don't consider my year a failure in numbers yes but thing learned NO WAY!!!!! It was a learning curve and it is still curving.
Dave
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Post by DaveLyons on Jan 27, 2005 23:20:54 GMT -6
One more thing. Canine trappers can move to the coyotes or fox most of the time. Most of the time with Mink Trapping you have to wait them out. That alone can be a hard thing to learn. But maybe I am wrong on my way of think too. So I will be keeping an eye on this post.
Dave
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Post by Edge on Jan 28, 2005 5:28:16 GMT -6
No,I think that is a good point,Dave.For the most part when I set for mink;I have set on minky looking spots,not necessarily "on" sign. After that it really is a waiting game.And a hoping game as well,hoping they pick the root system or cubby with the trap in it instead of the other 4 thousand roots and holes available.
Edge
PS Did you check on that estimating job in Montana?PM me if you can soon,I'm headed south shortly.
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Post by lumberjack on Jan 28, 2005 5:34:22 GMT -6
I know of a fellow just south of me that puts up amazing numbers of coon and rats. He uses mostly pockets for coon and den sets for rats,yet only catches a handful of mink a year. He is what I call a blitz trapper,and moves every 3 days or so. I always told him I would hate to see the amount of mink he would catch should he leave his traps out in the same spots for at least 2 weeks. In my mind,a good rat set or a coon set becomes a mink set when they are thinned out. Kind of hard for a mink to get caught when a rat or coon is in the trap. His time limit from work is why he blitz traps. So I contribute his lack of mink catch to his lack of leaving the traps set over a longer period of time.
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Post by jsevering on Jan 28, 2005 6:01:23 GMT -6
another reason I think that has alot to do with it is actual trap placement, along with the lack of reasoning that a mink is basically a dry land animal that likes water and structure.
calling the mink a dry land animal isnt intended to take anything away from the bottom edge set, as proven by many its a good set, but the mink cant eat under water....jim
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Post by trappnman on Jan 28, 2005 7:34:44 GMT -6
In my mind,a good rat set or a coon set becomes a mink set when they are thinned out.
Thats a good part of it, for sure.
Why do people have trouble trapping mink? Easy- they don't think like a mink. Sounds overly simple? Not really.
A mink walking has his head about ....6-8 inches of the ground. Mink are flushing type hunters. Mink have a fear of being in the open and being susceptible to predators. Put it all together... THINK like a mink.
Blind setting is an art- whether for canines or for mink. Knowing a minks habits on a creek, knowing WHERE % he should go- is the big secret.
I've said it before and I'll say it a 100 times again- its HARD to predict where a mink hunts, travels, dens. BUT is relatively easy to predict where a mink STOPS or rests.
So- there it is-put a trap here the mink rests.
Following tracks is always the advice to new mink trappers- and I agree to a degree. Folowing mink tracks show GENERAL tendencys of mink- all valuable knowledge. But I don't find much value overall in setting on the tracks.
Heres an experiment- follow tracks on snow- put out 10 traps where he enters the water, where he runs he bank.
You can follow that mink all year moving traps as each time out he takes different routes. Don't take my word- try it.
Now- try to find a couple resting (pausing, regrouping, spots) spots and set there.
I'll tell you where you will take that mink.
Another reason is traps- many fall for the old line about setting 1-2 traps at a stop. Not me. Set every trap you own for mink.
Third thing is success with sets. I personally find baited pockets to be a low % set- FOR ME. I have no doubt its my technique- yet I've watched Geralds demo several times- I can pretty much make a pocket just like he does- but I just don't take many mink in them. So- try a variety of sets- see what works for you.
Dryland animal - yes and no. I think the females, YOY are just about 100% water based. Yet I believe males are very much land based- I think old males often go weeks if not months away from the water.
Winter and lack of food pushes these mink to the water.
Patience? For sure. We took 2 mink last check of sets that were made Thanksgiving week- and sat untouched until now.
I believe mink trapping is the hardest trapping to actually teach- it sounds so simple. I used to take 8-12 mik a year. for many years. I figured that was about al lthe mink I had. Then I started hititng it harder, longer, thinking...
I took 30 mink that year. Now- I take 75-100 mink a year off the same streams I used to take the dozen.
Mink trapping is like a good rabbit dog- he gets good by "feeding him rabbit tracks". A good minker gets good by trapping mink.
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Post by trappnman on Jan 28, 2005 7:47:29 GMT -6
Heres a simple trick that will definetely increase your mink take.
On all footholds set as blind sets- take your fingers and wiggle out a small indentaion behind the trap. Just a rounded shallow spot on the "back wall". Put the trap in front of it and place a pencil sized stick in front of it touching the trap. I like this stick sticking up 4-8 inches.
You have now created a "tunnel" for a mink.... (the stick alos keeps the trap from tipping)
The eye appeal of this "tunnel" defintely attracts mink to the spot. No lure.
Works good on shear bare banks, works better tucked under grass banks.
While I am at it- tip #2- use a heavy, bigger trap. Mink are small animal with SHORT legs. Its easy for them to get hit by the jaw in the body- to my mind, altering the secureness of the catch. If you use a lot of #1 sized traps on mink- you are going to find snapped traps and/or toes.
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Post by thefoxtrapper on Jan 28, 2005 8:22:14 GMT -6
hey steve, if I get a chance Im gonna set a few blind mink sets along my otter line, just to catch a few, when you say resting spots, what comes to mind to me are the ends of beaver dams, log jams along creeks, and overhanging banks, is this what you are talking about??? some streams I have dont have much of this so will just set blind sets where I know a mink will enter the water, just curious if these are resting spots you speak of?
Winston
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Post by trappnman on Jan 28, 2005 8:57:57 GMT -6
Winston- those are some types of resting spots, and should be set up.
But in many places, I don't have those spots. I look for natural indentations. I used to call these "boat ramp sets" cause they looked like little minature boat ramps (ya hadda be there LOL)...but what they were were places where mink paused or rested. My first experimentations on these sets were in setting cow "slides" That is- where a cow drinks from a creek- you often get that semi circle look where its foot slipped into the water...see what I mean? And mink pause in such spots. If they come out of te water- its at these spots. They like to feel protected...so having a small indentation with cover basically touching their bodies on 3 sides- they pause, look around, go.
If you watch a mink working a creek- he goes in and out of the water seemingly at random..but most of those access and exit points are some sort of landing or resting locations. On a short bank pasture- there could be hundreds of such locations...but most areas have far, far less and once you start looking for these, they seem to jump out at you . On my creeks- is fairly common for branches and small logs to lay over or against the bank. Go look first under those- many have a little cup shaped depression in the bank under them at the waterline. I beleive its from mink resting there.
I create a lot of sets by making a cup like depression, setting the trap, and laying a small log (4-6 inches in diameter) against the bank over the set. Instant overhead cover. The mink just needs to feel the illusion of safety.
On a long grass covered bank- you can look under the grass and find these spots. Look for them around deeper pools- while them mink might be hunting underwater- they need to breathe to eat. And they need to sit somewhere when they do. If natural ones aren't there- make em.
If you have steep banks- look for vertical ones or shave the bank if needed- an indentation in the middle- add "overhead cover" with a log or stick (I many times just push a 2-4 inch stick in the bank 6-8 inches above the trap)...and any mink passing there will be drawn to that "protected area"
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Post by thefoxtrapper on Jan 28, 2005 9:08:24 GMT -6
I see what you are saying, I see what I can come up with, lots of ice down here right now and not going anywhere anytime soon, but I do have quite a bit of open water on the fast moving creeks....my take a few pics if I connect...Winston
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Post by BK on Jan 28, 2005 18:02:39 GMT -6
Perhaps one of the largest mistakes aspiring mink trappers make is trying to catch mink where they themselves wish to make their mink sets verses where mink desire to spend their time...... Traps set in these areas will do much better than traps set in a section of water they only wish to pass through. Food and cover are key here, the cover could be as simple as the other bank,or walking up or down a bend or two. The food,...........heck that might be underwater. ;D
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Post by JLDakota on Jan 28, 2005 19:21:13 GMT -6
I'll qualify my following statements with the fact that the mink must first of all be there to catch. I then feel the first reason is trappers don't cover enough different water. You must put on miles and put yourself over many many different streams and as many mink as possible. Two to four traps per stop is plenty. You keep covering new water til you run out of traps. The two most common things with guys who catch hundreds of mink per season is that they rack up miles and most are pocket setters with bait. I know guys in MN who have several days of 40-60 mink and they use nothing but pockets. They wear neaprene chest waders and don't tippy toe around searching for perfect sets. They slap in pockets and go, go, go. A tile spade for pockets and landscaping as required, bait, strong springed and laminated traps with long chains and T-bars and a desire to trap hard like the gentleman that just broke 1000 fox (congrats by the way on a hell of an accomplishment and a ton of work and as I recall not the first time you've done it) and you can catch as many mink as you want to skin as long as the open water lasts. Punch in deep pockets and fill them with a big chunk of bait and a little lure in the roof of the pocket. Any blinds you choose to make the first time you are on a piece of water should include a guide stick as Steve mentioned but just as important to me is a little lure a few inches above the trap to help him stall out over your trap. Be back later... JL
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Post by bblwi on Jan 28, 2005 22:28:08 GMT -6
Almost all of my mink are incidentals in rat and coon traps. My best season was 14 mink and that was with 244 rats and 57 water line coons. Your questions has caused me to ask this one of you. If one can catch 300 coon or 100 fox or 400 rats what amount of mink is your defintion of failing at mink trapping? There are 100s of trappers that catch 10 fold the number of each of the species I listed above and would call my numbers failures in their eyes.
Bryce
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Post by trappnman on Jan 29, 2005 5:45:13 GMT -6
And of those 40 mink a day- 39 are females and yoy. But thats early season trapping.
And the miles are incredible- One man I know drives 200 miles from home to START his mink lines.
FYI- the average take per normal year for the big number mink trappers I know is 1-300. Once ice comes- and some years it comes in a week- they are for the most part done. Their methods and techniques don't transfer well to winter conditions.
These same methods aren't quite as successful late season trapping- at least in my opinion.
I do disagree with the 2-4 traps per stop. If no animals except mink are present and you have perfect water conditons (stable, no ice) that works but if you have a lot of rats and coon or are trapping in snow and ice- such a few traps per stop is just not enough.
Early season mink trapping in drainage ditches, in irragation channels, slow water is almost another game entirel.
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Post by trappnman on Jan 29, 2005 5:48:39 GMT -6
Coon don't really matter- that is- I get so few mink in coon pockets that I consider any such catch a pure serpendipity type catch- a lucky bonus.
1) What type of rat sets are you making?
2) how quickly do you move your traps?
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Post by CoonDuke on Jan 29, 2005 7:52:23 GMT -6
bblwi, I guess it all depends on your area and how many mink other local trappers are taking.
I have a good friend that took about 35 coon and a little over 100 rats. He also took 21-22 mink as incidentals...most in the coon sets.
For me to catch 20 mink as incidentals I would have to take over 400 coon.
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Post by NittanyLion on Jan 29, 2005 8:03:42 GMT -6
Good thread The question, why do many good trappers fail at mink? In my opinion, the main reason would be lack of effort. If one fails at anything most times it is because of "lack of effort." I think it was DaveLyons that caught something like 8 mink using 4-8 traps. I would have one hell of a season if I caught a mink for every trap I had out. Dave, I would say you did really well. Edge.......You are welcome to go with me on my line anytime. Get your reservation in for next year It is funny how one trapper will have a great deal of success with a certain type of set and another trapper will struggle with that set but have a lot of success with still another type of set. I think it was Steve that said, "try things, and do what works for you." That may be the best advice of all. BK uses the bottom edge, Steve likes resting areas, Schmidt like baited pockets, the names and types of sets could go on and on. Try 'em all, and then do what works for you. But, if you really want to catch some mink, be prepared to put in a big effort.
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