My Mink Problem

[spiderclawz]

Thanks for the info. gentlemen. It has been a couple of days and nothing happening. I have more sets out now and have increased my chances I think. I snapped a couple of pics to see what you guys think. I hope this is not a bore to you, but it will help me as well as others I hope. JL, there is no grass on this part of the stream, but I'll keep that tip in mind.

This one is my favorite blind set, there were tracks here leading of into the water. See the victor?


dry trail on a ledge with conibear, tracks here as well...


Here are some tracks to check out... I was having fun taking pictures, but less picture taking and more fur catching would be nice! Any comments??

PIC (1)


PIC (2)


PIC (3)


PIC (4)


PIC (5)


PIC (6)


PIC (7)


PIC (8)

[lumberjack]

That 1st set looks great,I use basically the same type of set up when blind setting.
Just make darn sure there is no tunnel through that root clump overhang or he may go through it.
The ledge set is a classic looking one,but your triggers look spread too wide,unless they are trip wired he may make it through without triggering it.
Other than that make a bunch more sets and wait him out

[BK]

Spiderclawz, in your pic. with the 1/12 turn your trap 90 deg. so your loose jaw is tward the bank, and try to make shure the mink won't jump up on the rock and miss your set with some sticks.
In your next pic. by all means have a couple foot traps on the ledge below your Conibear.
Have you a program on the fox?

[spiderclawz]

LJ, no tunnels in the roots here, plus the tracks show mink headed both directions.
BK, I have a ledge that is a little wider on opposite side of creek with a blind foot trap. I'll get one in there as well then. I just set one dirt hole for the fox today.

[mac]

BK writes "Spiderclawz, in your pic. with the 1/12 turn your trap 90 deg. so your loose jaw is tward the bank, and try to make shure the mink won't jump up on the rock and miss your set with some sticks.
In your next pic. by all means have a couple foot traps on the ledge below your Conibear."

Very good advice. Let me make a couple of other suggestions. Mink can and will slip through a very small area. I would prefer to have one of my trap jaws touching the bank, which could be shaved vertical, and the other jaw fenced with a guide stick. I would also opt for a small jump guide stick. If possible I would remove the rock and other debrie. The rock is a place waiting for a mink to perch. In my opinion, you do not need the rock etc., and would be better off with a little brush or stick fencing. The mink will be hugging the bank any how. Just an opinion from the northeast.
Mac

[dj88ryr]

On you body gripper, I would make the wires straight down, side by side, then move the whole trigger over to one side, let him get his head through easily, and trip it with his shoulder or body, also, at the bottom of the trap, it looks like a stick is sticking right into the opening of the trap, if it is, I would remove it, remember, mink don't like things hitting them in the face.

[PAskinner]

On the first set, I would turn the trap so the loose jaw is tight to the bank and tighten it up. On the ledge set, I'd be a lot more confident with a #1 or #11 blended in-I haven't done well with conibears above the water. That does it, I'm moving-we can walk on water here. On the bright side, the BE sets are hot now.

[trappnman]

on the first pix, to the left of e trap...take your hand or trowel and dig out an indentation....about a softball sized hole if you can...in any case...some sort of indentation and place your trap tight against it.

i catch a lot of mink in situations EXACYLY like pix #2- again, make a smal lblind pocket or indentation to get the mink to pause there.

Place 1 guide stick so that the trap is between it and the water.....

I set up a lot of traps in situations like #2 and its a preferred location.