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Post by blaine76 on May 21, 2007 21:03:08 GMT -6
I built a coni cages and was wondering what is the legal requirements for them in Wis. does the whole trap have to be recessed or just the top, and how much? Say on this cage would I have to just extend the top a certain amount or recess the whole trap?
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Post by robertw on May 21, 2007 21:16:49 GMT -6
Blaine, If your building a "dog proof" enclosure like for Wisconsin, would you need the floor in the cage? Wondering if it couldn't be three sided and save on material and weight.
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Post by blaine76 on May 21, 2007 21:21:28 GMT -6
I had thought of making it without a floor and putting like legs on the 4 corners so you could secure it in the ground, not sure if its a good idea or what though
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Post by fishadict on May 21, 2007 21:41:04 GMT -6
Body-Gripping Trap Regulations No person may set, place or operate any 7x7 inch body-gripping trap; as a: Water set - unless one-half of the set trap is located underwater at all times; Elevated set - unless the trap is placed at least 5 feet above the surface; Baited and/or scented set in or on the ground - unless the trap trigger is within an enclosure that provides openings no greater than 50 square inches for a 7 inch recess; OR, an 8 inch height by 10 inch width opening with a 10 inch minimum recess from the enclosure openings; Unbaited and/or unscented trail set - unless the trap is within an enclosure that provides openings no greater than 10 inches in height and 10 inches in width and is recessed a minimum of 15 inches from the enclosure openings; or Bottom entry enclosure set - unless the entire opening of the enclosure is no more than 7 inches above the surface. The measurement to the surface is the distance to the first surface beneath the trap or opening where the surface is ground, ice, crusted or packed snow or any other hard material. For the purposes of this section, an enclosure means any single unit device that creates a barrier to the trap allowing entry only through designated openings.
- from the 06 regs.
160's do not need to be enclosed.
You can find the regs booklet at the Wisconsin DNR web site.
fa
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Post by blaine76 on May 21, 2007 21:44:53 GMT -6
thanks fishadict, I read that earlier and have to tell you that I really have no clue what it means. I cyphered on it for a while and it did not help.
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Post by robertw on May 21, 2007 21:57:59 GMT -6
" unless the trap trigger is within an enclosure that provides openings no greater than 50 square inches for a 7 inch recess; "
I think this is for the 160s. The "box" can not exceed a 50 square inch opening (7"x7") and the trap must be recessed at least 7" from the opening of the box.
Your coni box in your picture would be leagl if...You recessed the trap an additional 5 inches for a total 7".
"OR, an 8 inch height by 10 inch width opening with a 10 inch minimum recess from the enclosure openings;"
This is for 220 sized traps.
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Post by blaine76 on May 21, 2007 22:00:54 GMT -6
that makes it more understandable. thanks
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Post by fishadict on May 21, 2007 22:15:24 GMT -6
Not quite - for the 220:
Baited/scented - 7" recess for 50 square inch opening, 10" recess for 8x10" opening.
Unbaited/unscented - 15" recess for 10x10" opening.
160's do not need to be covered and do not need to be recessed in a baited set.
Larger than 220 can not be used on land.
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Post by blaine76 on May 21, 2007 22:23:11 GMT -6
so fishadict that 160 in the pic is a legal set?
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Post by mustelameister on May 22, 2007 6:02:40 GMT -6
There are no restrictions on #160s at this time.
I run 5 dozen #220s in grass trails the first week of dryland 'coon trapping. The enclosures were built from 1x2 galvanized fencing, purchased in a roll that is 32" wide. I cut this roll into 30" lengths, then borrowing a brake from one of my farmer friends, I bent each length at 10" and 20".
When set on the ground, I have a wire tunnel that is 32" long, with entrances that measure 10"x10"x10". With the #220 in the middle, I meet the requirements for the 15" recessed opening.
These tunnels stack up on one another at least a dozen deep. Makes for easy transportation whether in a truck or the boat. The #220 is mounted to a homemade lath/carriage bolt assembly that pokes into the ground. A T-bar run through the wire cage and an S-link off the end of the cable of the #220 keeps the assembly put and on the ground.
I lay these out in August in 'coon trails, and lay dead branches on top and grass them over well. Come mid-October, they're part of the habitat. They work very well.
If I want to bait them, which I do, all I have to do is bend the bottom two inches out, which now lowers the cage to an 8"x10"x8" opening. These score very well.
With no floor, and both ends open, I feel the 'coon is not too hesitant to continue through the cage. With the branches and other debris on top and continuing on the sides like fencing, I feel they take the easiest route, which is throught the cage.
The only place I don't use these is where folks might be running beagles. I have had no dog incidents to date.
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Post by thebeav2 on May 22, 2007 7:08:24 GMT -6
When I used 220s In wire I built my cages 12" high and 10" wide and the wire was 30" long. I then hog ringed a 2" section of wire at the bottom of each opening giving me a 10x10 opening. The higher wire en-closer was more Inviting to the coon and I had less refusals I found that a coon would rather step over that 2" strip of wire then duck down to enter. And no matter what anyone tries to tell you you will get MORE refusals with wire cages then you will with out them. And they are a pain In the butt to store and haul around and with the county mowing practice's you will find your self In trouble placing them out ahead of time. That Is If your trapping road right a ways.
You can build your baited cubbies the same way ,make the entrance a lot taller then regulation and place a section of wire at the bottom to decrease the opening size to make them legal. Coon have no problem stepping over things It's ducking down to enter Is when you will get refusals.
When using any body grip trap on dry land your a dealing with time bomb that Is ready too go off so please use your head when setting them.
When some family's life long pet lies dead In a 220 body grip who do you think Is going too take the heat? Weather right or wrong you the trapper will lose In the end. The trappers In WI have been fighting for over 10 years to save our body grippes on dry land. sure we have made lots of concessions but we still have them and the fight Isn't over yet.
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Post by blaine76 on May 22, 2007 9:00:56 GMT -6
thanks for the responses, I had a couple people ask me about them is the reason I ask. As far as storage and hauling beav, it was the reason I was asked to make them collapsible. I have only built the one, but I liked it because it was not a bulky as say a bucket.
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Post by packerfan on May 22, 2007 11:39:59 GMT -6
Fish and Beav summed it up. I personally love cubbies and think that this is one of the BEST designs I have ever seen. Will any of these be for sale? Or just personal use.
-Dan
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Post by blaine76 on May 22, 2007 11:44:35 GMT -6
if anyone would be interested in them I could make them to sale.
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Post by packerfan on May 22, 2007 12:01:39 GMT -6
I would be. When are you planning on trapping in Wisconsin?
-Dan
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Post by blaine76 on May 22, 2007 12:04:16 GMT -6
packerfan a guy from Wisconsin had asked me about the cages, and I did not know yalls regs. so I wanted to know what I needed to build.
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Post by Rich P. on May 22, 2007 12:25:56 GMT -6
Just out of curiosity, is there a record of anyone that killed a dog in wisconsin using a 160 conibear? All I use are 160's and just wondered if they are capable of killing dogs. I mean hunting dogs like labs,spaniels.,retrievers.
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Post by mustelameister on May 22, 2007 12:42:11 GMT -6
yup
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Post by trappnman on May 23, 2007 7:11:57 GMT -6
I find it hard to believe that a lab sized dog, would be caught and killed in a 160..HAVE there been any such cases?
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Post by thebeav2 on May 23, 2007 7:21:33 GMT -6
Murphy's Law, If It can go wrong It will.
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