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Post by robertw on Apr 8, 2007 16:09:36 GMT -6
I am hoping that maybe FWS and few others on here that exclusively use live traps to catch bobcats and grey fox would share some tips with all of us.
What types of visual attractors work best?
Do any of you use live bait boxes on the end of the trap?
How much problem does a couple of inches of snow cause with the live trap functioning reliably?
Can you you catch the big older toms or does your catch run heavy with they yearling's and female bobcats?
How important is covering the floor of the trap?
What is an adequate hiegth of the trap?
Thanks for your replies.
BTW, Pictures would be welcome.
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Post by monstertom on Apr 8, 2007 16:34:15 GMT -6
I normally use 2 sizes this one is 16x24x36 or 15x15x36 most everything here is caught with simple attractors in the back of the cage with good fresh beaver bait. Good call lure is a must. never had problems with snow but a good brushey roof does wonders. I dont get to fancy with the set up but everyone is different. We caught 34 cats this year 19 toms 7 between 22&27lbs 10 females 5 kittens. 15 greys doesn't take much to catch them.
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Post by robertw on Apr 8, 2007 17:21:45 GMT -6
Monstertom,
Do you cover the floor of the traps or are most with the wire floor exposed like in this picture?
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Post by monstertom on Apr 8, 2007 18:20:11 GMT -6
I will work the cage back and forth to level it what ever material comes through the bottom is all I use. more important to me is that there are no voids or humps under the cage. this set has a shingle on top to keep the snow out and to keep he birds from seeing the bait
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Post by coloradocat on Apr 8, 2007 18:45:03 GMT -6
Depends on the location. Sometimes I brush heavy,other times not. I always cover my bottoms.
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Post by coloradocat on Apr 8, 2007 18:52:22 GMT -6
I use a feather or a chunk of deer or elk hide as a attractor. I dont think a fella needs to go through the hassle of live bait, just too much extra effort. The cages I use are 12x20x36,10x20x36,12x24x36. Im no expert, but Flatlander or Yancy could tell you that width of the cages has nothing to do with cats, its really a height issue.
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Post by robertw on Apr 8, 2007 19:48:21 GMT -6
Monstertom and Coloradocat, What brand of traps are you using and the brands of traps in the pictures?
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Post by FWS on Apr 8, 2007 20:23:11 GMT -6
I'd say they made their own just like I did. There's no way I'd sprinkle $80+ each commercially made traps around on public lands.
The traps I prefer after a lot of experimentation are 21"Hx10Wx36L. But they're different than what I see others using.
And now I make them so I can put door 'modules' on either end that operate off the same pan so they drop simultaneously. Reason being is that a walk through on a trail that you brush up to force them. Makes the trap longer but so what.
Or I can use them singly in a 'cubby' type cage set, which is effective on gray fox.
Can't use live bait, usually a patch of fur/glass eye or feathers for a visual. On the walk throughs I make a visual set outside and off to the side of the cage, they have to go through to investigate that. And I use guides just like with legholds with a shingle on the pan as the target.
Used electronic visuals which seemed to work on cats but spooked gray fox so I'm not using them right now.
Always cover the floor and in the cubbies I like a trash pile in the back with extra visuals like a cotton ball shredded in it.
No snow where I trap but I doubt it would bother my doors if they could still trigger the pan.
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Post by SteveCraig on Apr 9, 2007 0:15:13 GMT -6
Robert, Pretty much like John says. All of mine are 20"x10"x36". I have a few that are 8" wide and they work just as well as the 10's. I make all mine myself for under $8 each. I have both drop down and swing down doors. I like the swing down better however. I been hounding John for a year to tell me how he is making his double door setup, but he is one closed mouth dude! I will figure it out eventually. Just dont have the time right now. Cages are a real pain to use, haul, etc but certainly better than the nothing we have now. For bigger toms, I feel it is very important to have plenty of height to the cage. I'm talking those 25 to 30 pounders. I been the short cage route, and believe me you catch bigger toms with higher cages. Southern cats ........you may be able to get by with shorter cages. Not here. I always cover the floor, as a cat is uncomfortable walking on the wire. Visuals are the same as any cat trapping, but I really believe that house cat urine gets me cats that wouldnt go into the cage otherwise. You cant keep the greys out of them. Lions will tear the heck out of a cage or three each year, but usually trying to get at the juicy morsel inside. If the cage were big enough, you could catch lions real easy. I know the G&F uses cages here for lions all the time. Like John said, no live bait allowed here. But if legal, I would use it. Shingles on the pan are a must as far as I am concerned. Steve
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Post by 17HMR on Apr 9, 2007 7:37:35 GMT -6
How far back from the rear of the cage do you guys like the pan to be?
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Post by SteveCraig on Apr 9, 2007 13:12:08 GMT -6
I prefer my pans closer to the door than closer to the back of the cage. I want the door to hit them in the butt when they step on the pan. They will jump forward better than they will back out as the door closes. Pans set too far back in the cage can get alot of cats just standing short of the pan without commiting to your attractor.
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Post by monstertom on Apr 9, 2007 16:50:43 GMT -6
Ditto. I try to put the door side of my pan around 20" from the edge of the door.
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Post by FWS on Apr 9, 2007 18:22:48 GMT -6
Pretty much. I used whole frozen bobcats and gray fox to get an idea while building cages and setting the pan system up.
My pans break at about 1 lb. with no creep, took a lot to figure out how to do that. The door being spring loaded and under a constant tension helps with that.
The other thing with gray fox is the lockup has to be tight because they are escape artists in cages.
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Post by SteveCraig on Apr 9, 2007 18:48:46 GMT -6
" The other thing with gray fox is the lockup has to be tight because they are escape artists in cages."
Amen to that!
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Post by FWS on Apr 9, 2007 18:54:15 GMT -6
They are the most tenacious little mofo's in a cage ;D
After catching a bunch in cage traps I don't see too many commercially made cages that I think would be good for them.
Height is important for them too IMO.
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Post by robertw on Apr 9, 2007 19:04:49 GMT -6
Monstertom, Does the trap in the first picture (snow picture) reliably hold grey fox? Just wondered if some wouldn't slink out sideways above where the door hinges?
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Post by robertw on Apr 9, 2007 19:06:02 GMT -6
ColoradoCat, Is the trap in your first picture a commercially made trap?
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Post by monstertom on Apr 9, 2007 19:15:25 GMT -6
Yes. the bars in the door are at 2" centers you may want to set pan tension up to around 2 and a half lbs or so rabbits civits and other un wanted critters are apt to trip them at one pound. both coloradocat and I battle pack rats here they will climb up the back of the cage but jump on the the trigger when they leave.
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Post by monstertom on Apr 9, 2007 19:20:56 GMT -6
Heres the same cage 3 days before the snow. note we are not allowed to take grey fox here.
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Post by coloradocat on Apr 9, 2007 19:33:16 GMT -6
Robert,
I make most all my cages. Like FWS said, just too much money invested in cages on public lands. Yancy sells a heck of a cage, and schroeder fur makes a pretty good cage also.
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